by chris ayres | Nov 2019 | UK to New Zealand
For my time in SW bay, the weather was not good with strong SE winds and very rough seas with a bIg swell. It was better to stay and wait for better conditions. Eventually the forecast was for the wind to ease and go Easterly and the seas to calm a little. It was around 100 miles to Port Villa so at least a 24 hr passage. Weighing anchor early one morning I headed out of the bay and rounded the end of the reef of Ba Arum point before shaping a course for Efate. Grey at first the seas still fairly rough but throughout the day conditions eased some. I couldn’t quite make the correct course due to wind and waves so had to tack eastwards at some point. The night passed quietly with the wind having eased to easterly 15 – 17 knots, but shortly after dawn with Efate in sight I was virtually becalmed. Actually this did me a bit of a favour as under engine I could set a direct course which probably saved me a couple of hours. Rounding Devils point I crossed the bay and soon could pick up a mooring in Port Villa.
Port Villa mooring field
Here I could shower, drop of my washing, do some much needed shopping for supplies and have a coffee and a meal. I also needed some time to rest and then prepare for the passage to New Zealand. One of the chores was scrubbing the hull so that I might comply with NZ strict bio-security laws. I took 2 long mornings to do this, diving under the hull in a face mask armed with scraper and scotch pad, it is quite exhausting work. Checking the forecast it looked like there was fairly decent weather window coming up so I decided to leave on the Monday. First thing Monday then I took a bus up to the customs wharf to complete my clearance papers and pay the harbour dues. A bit of last minute shopping for bread and fresh veg and then it was time to pack up and stow the dinghy and cast off from the mooring.
I knew for the first couple of days I would have headwinds so would have to tack but was lead to believe by the forecast that the wind would go easterly then fall light maybe even calm before getting into westerlies near NZ. Trouble was as I was to find the forecast was nothing like the conditions I found. I did have to tack quite bit those first few days as I was getting pushed westwards and my rhumb line course was towards the SE/SSE. All this of course adds to the distance to be travelled and the time. 4 days out and I was close to the reefs and banks of the SE end of New Caledonia and my course was heading straight for the Banc de L’Orne forcing me to tack to the East to clear it. 8 days out and a ran into a calm patch so I motored for just over 24 hours to get through this. During this time I had the only rain of the passage. I had spotted a nasty looking rain cloud dead ahead so had altered course to try and skirt it. Looked liked I might succeed at one point but I either didn’t skirt it enough or there was no avoiding it anyway. Still wasn’t so bad, a brief increase in wind than torrential rain for 20 mins. Still it will have washed away some of the salt coating of Sea Bear.
Relaxing on a benign day on passage
The wind returned so sailing again. The latch spring on the servo paddle of the wind vane steering gear broke so it was disengaged. It say something for Sea Bear’s sailing abilities she kept on her close hauled course no bother and that I only noticed that the tiller was steady whilst the wind vane altered. Peering over the stern the paddle was trailing uselessly in the water. I managed to re-engage the latch and lashed it shut.
10 days out and I was passed by another yacht and we had a chat over the vhf, mainly about the weather. We were less than 300 miles from New Zealand by now and should have been getting SW or W winds however we were faced with relentless strongish SE’lys. These persisted for some 5 days
My worst day was having logged 101 miles noon to noon I had only made 37 miles net gain towards NZ, next day 88 miles noon to noon but just 35 miles gained in the right direction. It was pretty depressing and I was feeling pretty low.
Eventually however just after dawn 15 days out I came within sight of New Zealand, at first the coast had coyly hidden its-self behind a bank of haze but it was gradually revealed. A big pod of dolphins came swimming around the boat, leaping out of the water as if to say welcome to New Zealand.
Just past Tikitiki rock at the entrance to the Bay of Islands a NZ customs rib came by for a few words. They said they were expecting me as they had picked me up on AIS and the customs would be ready for me at the quarantine dock. Some I was tying up at the dock and clearance into New Zealand proceeded.
It had been a tough passage, 1557 miles logged as opposed to rhumb line course of 1,100 miles and just short of 15 days, I was glad to get in and felt in need of a rest.
by chris ayres | Jan 2020 | UK to New Zealand
I spent some time for rest in Opua. I also fixed the broken tiller bolt and replaced the broken latch spring on the self steering and bought a new dinghy as my old one was truely on its last legs. I dug out the bike and rode the twin coast cycle way to Kawakawa and back.
Twin coast cycleway
I also walked along the coast path to Pahai,
Opua to Pahia path
went to the thermal pools with Rusty John and also to an open mic night at the Russel boat club. I thought then it was time for more cruising and explore the Bay of islands.
View from Pahia
My first stop was Opunga cove, a nice place to relax. Then to Robinson bay, Motuarohia island. A very popular spot this with a nice walk up to an old Fortified Pa on the hilltop. Captain Cook had beat me to this place too and had a notable meetings with the Maori here.
Robertson Island
On to Pipi bay, Moturua island, this is a Department of Conservation island. They made strenous efforts to rid the island of all introduced pests, rats, possums and stoats and the bird life has recovered helped by re-introductions. There is a good walking track on the island which I took. Nice to to get a bit of a leg stretch.
Moturoa Island
The weather turned into strong SW winds of 25 – 30 knots so I moved across to Putakokota bay which was more sheltered but moved later as the wind seemed to be swirling around the headland and I moved a few miles to Parekura bay which offered better shelter.
By next morning the wind had died so I sailed across to Indigo bay Urupukapuka Island. Somewhat confusingly places often have multiple names. This bay is variously called Indigo bay, Otaia bay or Entico bay, take your pick I guess. Another DOC island again with several good walking tracks, I took the Cliff Pa loop and the Pateke loop tracks, very nice too with good views.
Urupukapuka island
Indigo bay Urupukapuka island
I didn’t stop in this bay overnight as the weather forecast predicted a wind shift to NW and strong winds so I moved to Orakawa bay and sheltered here from the blow.
Time to restock on supplies so I anchored off Pahai .Rowed ashore and walked to the supermarket to restock and buy some xmas goodies like a xmas cake, xmas pudding, mince pies and some wine. Pahai is not a good anchorage as its is far too rolly with all the wash from the ferries and sight seeing boats so shopping done I moved across to Pomare bay. It was pretty blowy for the next couple of days so I just stayed here.
by chris ayres | Jan 2020 | UK to New Zealand
When the weather eased I left the Bay of Islands and headed north. Last year whilst touring in the van I had walked from Totara to Lane Cove and seen a boat anchored there and had wanted to visit the spot by boat ever since. My way north up the coast took me past the Cavalli Islands and I decided to take the Cavalli Passage, inshore of the islands. The Cavallis are the last resting place of the Greenpeace ship. After her sabotage & sinking by French agents she was salvaged and brought up here to be sunk as a memorial and a dive site. Heading past Flat island , then between Stephenson’s island and Frenchman’s rock and past Arrow rocks I could head into Whangaroa Harbour where I anchored in Waitepipi Bay. A spectacular spot this, surrounded by steep bush covered slopes with rock towers sticking above them including one called the Duke’s Nose.
Dukes Nose from Waitepipi bay
Next morning it being Christmas day I rowed into Lane cove landing at the little beach here and took my customary xmas day walk up the Duke’s Nose. The top section was a bit of a scramble but an iron railing was there to provide assistance.
Railing up Duke’s Nose
The views were superb. Regaining the boat I cooked my xmas dinner followed by the pudding. I did some more walks whilst here and never saw another soul in the bush.
View from Duke’s Nose
View from Duke’s Nose
Whangaroa harbour
After a few days I decided it was time to head back to Whangarei but before leaving Whangaroa I explored the harbour a little and then anchored in Owhatanga Bay for the night.
I coast hopped southwards, around the outside of the Cavallis this time.
Cavalli Islands
Back in the Bay of Islands I anchored at Waewaetorea Bay, Waewaetorea Island for a quiet New years eve. New years day saw me rounding Cape Brett and down to Puriri bay, Whangaruru harbour. The last hour into here was a bit hectic with 25 knots of wind and me having full sail up, the forecast had suggested 15 knots max. As I have often found, so much for forecasts.
Percy Island Cape Brett
On then to Urquharts bay at the mouth of the Haita river, a gentle wind most of the day then suddenly a 180 deg shift and 25 knots kicking up quite a sea. With the wind on the nose it took a long time to round Bream Head and it wasn’t long before dark that I could drop the hook.
Next morning I took the flood tide up the river, it was still blowing hard but there was a bit of a respite up near Whangarei. Under the lifting bridge and thankfully there was a free berth at Riverside Drive. With a strong wind up my tail it was tricky to get in but the skipper of a neighbouring boat took my lines and I was soon all snug and secure . Good to be back in Whangarei.
by chris ayres | Mar 2020 | UK to New Zealand
Back in Whangarei, Wendy and I did some nice walks in the Whangarei Heads area. We walked to Smugglers cove and Bream Head and also over Mt Aubrey with its dramatic pinnacles.
Smugglers Cove
Mt Aubrey
We paid a visit to Tutukaka and the marvellous coastline there walking from Matua bay to the glorious Whale bay taking in a glorious swim here.
Closer to Whangarie we walked along the Matea river to visit Whangarei falls with a swim in the pool here and a walk along the tree walk of AH Reed memorial park with its large Kauri trees.
Whangarei Falls
Wendy on bridge over Hatea river
Hugging a Kauri
All too soon Wendy’s time in New Zealand was up and I was left once again to my own devices.
The Pasifika Fusion festival provided diversion for a day with lots of dancers from the Pacific islands.
Pasifika festival
I walked the Hatea loop several times, shopped at the growers market for fresh fruit and veg, drunk Flat whites in town but also more energetically cycled the cycle track along the estuary and through the mangroves to the jetty at Onerahi.
On the Hatea loop
Waka Sculpture
Whangarei town centre
Heron preening at the marina
Another day I walked up to the Abbey caves, an area of caves and eroded limestone boulders which was interesting to explore.
by chris ayres | Feb 2020 | UK to New Zealand
Early morning swim Hatfield beach on way from airport
Wendy had arrived for a visit, we made use of the campervan to go to the Bay of Islands music festival in Waitangi then visited Kerikeri for waterfall walks then across to Hokianga harbour and down through the Waipoua forest and the giant Kauri trees. Back in Whangarie it was time to go sailing again.
Leaving the marina just before midday, at the top of the tide, we slipped the mooring warps and headed off down the river, under the Hatea bridge and away. We anchored for the evening in Urquharts bay, cooked tea and relaxed in the cockpit with a sundowner. The forecast for the morrow looked good for the crossing to Great Barrier island with fine weather and westerlies of 10 to 15 knots. We left at first light, the weather was fine but the winds remained light all day. We did fly the cruising chute for a while but progress was to slow to ensure a daylight arrival so we ended motoring most of the 40 mile passage. Late afternoon saw us anchoring in Nimaru bay, Great Barrier Island.
We moved next morning, sailing around Maunganui point where the wind was strong and gusty and the sea a nasty slop, into the calmer waters of Port Abercrombie and thence to Forestry Bay, Port Fitzoy.
Dinghy landing Forestry bay
Here we rowed ashore and followed the Bridle track first to Port Fitzroy itself then returned to the junction with the Warren track up the waterfall. Farther than expected the timings on the track signs being a bit out. The waterfall itself was a little disappointing – reduced to a mere trickle on account of the drought. Next day a walk took us around to Kiarara bay and a walk up the old forestry road.
Forestry Bay
Back at the boat we made the short hop to anchor in Kiarara bay . It was very windy the next day so we stayed put.
Moving on again to Kiwiriki bay, a lovely bay this, rocky islands by the entrance and wooded hillside all around, no roads no houses. We did a couple of walks whilst here on the Kiwiriki track. One up towards Maungapiko and the other up to Coffin creek and thence to Kiarara bay. Other times we played about in the dinghy and on the paddleboard.
Kiwiriki bay
After a few days we moved back to Port Fitzroy, anchoring in Forestry bay again. A walk to Port Fitzroy and up to Lookout Rock rewarded us with fine views and later with bread and fruit from the shop and a delicious burger and chips on the quayside.
Lookout rock above Port Fitzroy
Great Barrier island is off grid, there are few roads and no mains power, poor or non-existant phone signal. Residents rely on catching rain water for their water supply. It is a lovely largely unspoilt place though was once heavily logged for the Kauri trees.
We could have happily stayed there longer but decided to return to the mainland whilst conditions were good. It was calm as we motored out from Port Fitzroy but later the wind kicked in a little NW at first then later it switched to West 17 knots dead on the nose then to SW.
9pm and just dark as we anchored in Uruharts bay , a long tiring passage.
Next day we took the tide back up the river to Whangarie, under the bridge and moored alongside at Riverside drive marina again.
by chris ayres | Apr 2020 | UK to New Zealand
Self isolation on the boat
By now I had planned to be back home in UK but I found myself trapped in NZ with the lockdown.
Corona virus pandemic was starting to grip the world and the NZ government was taking early and tough measures, announcing self quarantine measure for arrivals in NZ and soon following up with a ban on non New Zealanders arriving in the country. At this stage there was only a handful of cases in NZ and with the testing programme they knew that all the cases were people who had come to NZ from infected areas. As soon as there were two cases that they thought might be from community transfer they announced a level 4 lockdown. All cafes & resteraunts and shops apart from supermarkets closed and all business to close. Everyone to stay at home in their own bubble and with no non-essential travel, allowed out only to go to the supermarket and for local exercise.
Although the British govt was urging all Brits to return home, this was impossible – there were no flights and almost all the transfer hubs for flights had closed.
The morning of the lockdown (25th March), was eerily quiet, gone where the sounds of work in the boatyard, traffic on the roads very light and very few people on foot.
The Hatea loop, a 4.2km cycle and walk way that loops from the Town Basin and canopy bridge and down one side of the river crosses the Te Matau a Pohe bridge (fishook in Maori) and back up the other side, normally very popular and busy, was virtually deserted.
Te Matau a Pohe
As well as the Hatea loop, I am lucky that right on my doorstep is the Parihaka Scenic Reserve. Parihaka is an eroded volcanic cone 241m high and there are 3 tracks up it. From the top there are marvellous panoramic views over the town & harbour and right down the estuary to Whangarei Heads. My favourite is the Ross track, from the end of the tarmac, the track follows the stream ascending by the side of a small waterfall by a wooden staircase. The track carries on up through the native bush and there are a number of Kauri trees. Opposite the largest of these is a handy bench for contemplation. I generally push on preferring a non stop ascent. Sometimes I stop in descent when I generally take it slower anyway to ease the creakey knees, legacy of a lifetime of bashing up and down the mountains.
Kauri tree on Ross track
The other tracks start by following the Hatea river, there is a boardwalk through a mangrove swamp then up through the woods before branching up the hillside. Near the top of the Dobbie track are the remains of a Maori fortifications (a Pa site).
It is a good circuit to ascend and descend by different tracks and switch ways up to add to the variety.
My other form of exercise is on the bike, a folding Brompton. A couple of circuits of the loop or taking the 10km Onerhai cycleway/walkway which leads to the Waimahanga walkway, a track following the estuary and partly the course of an old railway line.
All in all it’s not to bad being stuck here in Whangarei, I am probably better off (and safer) here than in the UK at the moment. I was looking forward to being back home and catching up with every one, I am missing my family & friends back in UK. The future is full of uncertainty but others are in a worse situation than me and my thoughts go out to them.
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