by chris | Aug 2019 | UK to New Zealand
Before leaving Vuda the staff gathered on the dock and sang me a farewell song.
Farewell to Fiji song
It was about 20 miles to Navula passage, out through the reef. By the time I got there it was growing dark, the wind had picked up and was blowing hard I knew it would be rough outside and the smoke from a fire on the hillside was obscuring the leading lights. I didn’t feel like passing through the reef in those conditions, so although you are not supposed to I turned into Momi bay and anchored there for the night. Much refreshed next morning I set out again, the wind had dropped and I had an easy passage out through the reef and could set course for Vanuatu, 450 miles away. I was aiming for Aneityum, the most southerly of the islands. It is not an official port of entry but you can ask for special permission to clear there, which I had done and it had been granted. The great advantage of clearing here first is that you can then work you way north up the island chain without having to beat against the trade winds. The passage went quite well although the 2nd day turned out very windy with rough and at times very rough seas coming from abeam and breaking. Several times waves broke against the boat and into the cockpit. I managed to stay dry in the shelter of the spray hood. We had a full moon for this passage so the nights were far from dark even with cloud cover.
The only other boat I saw was on the last eve, I had just spotted the island about 60 miles a way and shortened sail to slow down to preclude a nighttime arrival when I spotted a sail astern. It soon passed me.
Landfall at Aneityum just after sunrise
Sunrise of the 5th day out found me about 4miles off the SE corner of the island, just about perfect timing I thought. As I skirted the Southern coast and rounded the reefs there I noticed several sailboats leaving the bay. Great it was the rally boats leaving meaning an uncrowded anchorage. I am not a fan of these yacht rallies of which there seems to be more and more. It means a great crowd of yachts in anchorages all at once. With the rally boats left there was plenty of space for me to choose a nice anchor spot in about 7m of water. My noon to run runs for this passage were all over 100 miles which was pleasing.
Anelcauhat
After a brew of tea I inflated the dinghy and went ashore. My luck was in, Customs, Immigration and Biosecurity officers were all still here, they are not on the island full time so clearance was painless quick and friendly. A stroll through the village and along the beach completed the day.
Anelcauhat village
Anchorage
Next day I walked along tracks and beaches to the next bay and village, all very delightful.
No real roads on the island, people live in simple woven huts by fishing and farming. They speak a form of pigdeon English though many speak English too. They are mostly a little shy but friendly and welcoming always with a greeting.
I walked up to this waterfall in the forest.
Sammy
Sammy who I’d met on 1st day took me a village inland from Anelcauhat and introduced me to Ali who guided me there. I wouldn’t have found the way by myself. A vague trail, muddy in places, over fallen trees, under fallen trees, crossing gulleys and across the river on slippery boulders 5 or 6 times and after 2 or more hard hours we got there.
Waterfall
at the waterfall
Ali’s house
One of the river crossings
Track through forest
Had a refreshing cold swim in the pool under the falls. I had taken some nuts with me and offered some to Ali. From his quizzical expression studying a cashew nut I could tell he had never seen one before, but he enjoyed them. Having left at 10 I was back on the beach and my dinghy about 4 just a little tired.
The bay is open to the West so one morning when the waves started into the bay and a gentle at first west wind, it was time to move out. Francoise the Frenchman in the other boat at anchor came across with some query about english words in descriptions of other anchorages on the island. We decided to head up to Anawamet bay on the North coast, this should give some shelter from the west. It would also be a handy spot for jumping off heading north
Anchoring here, the village chief paddled out in his dugout canoe to say hi and welcome us and I had quite a long chat with him about his village and the island.
by chris | Sep 2019 | UK to New Zealand
Leaving Anawamet bay just after sunrise I was headed for the island of Tana. Calm at first the wind and waves soon picked up and we had 2 mad half hour periods when the wind went from about 15 to over 25 knots and more very quickly raising quite a sea. Fortunately later it eased a little later but the sea state remained rough all day. Rounding point Yewao, the wind was up to 25 knots again but we could head into Port Resolution where although the wind remained strong the seas flattened out and I could anchor in about 6 m. There were about 6 other boats anchored here, the main attraction here being Mt Yasur, an active volcano. Port Resolution was named by that man Captain Cook again, seems like I have been following in his wake for a couple of years now.
Port Resolution
I visited the village ashore and was given a welcoming gift couple of bunches of bananas and a big pawpaw by Johnson.
Port Resolution village
I arranged a trip to visit the volcano through him. In the afternoon we were driven in a 4wheel drive pickup to the reception centre at the the foot of the mountain.
Presentation of flowers
Volcano dance
After a ceremonial presentation and a “volcano” dance by the villagers we drove up the 4wheel drive track to a grey ashy plain. A walk up to the crater rim in the late afternoon and we could peer down into what looked like the pit of hell.
To the crater rim
The crater
Further around the rim the bubbling lava was plain to see and every now and then and explosion would send molten fragments high to splash on the crater walls. As darkness fell the sight was even more spectacular. It was an awe inspiring experience to be so close.
Another day I walked around the bay and up steep forest tracks to Enpitoka jungle farm. Philimon the chief wasn’t there but his wife showed me around the gardens and showed me some of the crops they grew which included: yams, taro, manioc, tobacco, onions, cabbage (but not the stuff we know, this was leaves of a small tree), kava, lemons, bananas and coconuts. She also gave me some slices of pawpaw to eat.
Enpitoka forest farm
On the way back I stopped for a chat with a young man in one of the small settlements in the forest and he explained how the villagers acted collectively.
Much as I enjoyed staying in Port Resolution the anchorage was a little rolly and there were so many more islands to explore so I decided to move onto Eromanga the next island in the chain.
by chris | Sep 2019 | UK to New Zealand
The next hop was 50 miles to Dillon bay on Erromango island. I wasn’t sure whether I would be able to do this in daylight hours, there is just 12 hours of daylight here. I weighed anchor just before sunrise and had a nice view of Mt Yasur the volcano “pothering” out its smoke.
Mt Yasur, Tana
The forecast had been for 10-15 knots from SE but it was stronger than that so I was able to keep up a good speed and 11 hours later I had dropped anchor in Dillon Bay. I was very pleased with that.
Dillon bay
David from the village paddled out in his outrigger dugout canoe with a gift of bananas, pawpaw and the biggest lemon I had ever seen. I gave him some flour and rice, the supply boat only visits once a month so they run low of things at times
He has built a “yacht cub” ashore for visiting cruisers. Next day I visited him there, he has set himself up as a guide. He showed me the village, the gardens and a delightful swimming pool in the river where I had a lovely dip. He told me the names of the trees and their uses some as a source of incense (sandlewood) others to use as lamps, and which trees they made their dug out canoes from. I was surprised to learn that there are Kauri trees here and they have created a protected zone for them. Afterwards I had lunch with them, rice , yams, fried bananas, manioc, a stew/soup of beef and cabbage fresh squeezed lemon juice and of course pawpaw. Again I learned a little more off the island. Although it is quite a big island there are just 2 villages and there is virtually no development on the island and it is largely off the tourist track.
the River at Dillon bay
Some strong winds arrived so I stayed put for a couple of days as the forecasts were for 20-25 knots and very rough seas and I didn’t fancy getting beat about.
Supply ship at the beach
It was 80 miles to Efate, the next island and the capital Port Villa, so it was to be a night time passage. Setting off late afternoon once the weather had eased I was hoping for a quiet and peaceful passage, trouble was the wind had eased so much there was virtually none. I had to resort to motoring, at least the seas were calm, shame about 12 hours of engine noise though. Still arrived in Port Villa and was soon secured to a substantial mooring ball.
Port Villa welcome
Ashore it was a bit of a culture shock, shops, banks, restaurants, busy with traffic, all the trappings of a tourist town and the place seemed overrun with Aussies. Well I suppose it’s just a fairly short hop for them, a bit like Brits jetting off to Spain or Greece for their holidays. Still it was good to replenish the stores on things that I had run out of or was running short off. There was a strong French influence about the place, some french supermarkets and the bread was baguette style.
Distant view of mooring field Port Villa
With such a sheltered & calm mooring field here I thought it ideal to clean off the bottom of Sea Bear after all she had been in the water for 6 months now. I was lying in the dinghy, arm in the water scrubbing the waterline when the moorings boatman spotted me and made me an offer I couldn’t refuse to clean the hull for me for a very cheap price. So now we have a nice clean hull again, it makes quite a difference to the sailing performance.
by chris | Sep 2019 | UK to New Zealand
Port Villa sunset
I ended up staying longer than intended in Port Villa. Jan & Richard were on their way back from Santo here so I waited an extra couple of days to see them again. Then the weather turned bad and it rained just about non-stop for 3 days. When eventually the rain stopped it was very windy with a strong wind warning out and very rough seas and big waves. So although this was frustrating as I wanted to be on my way, it was better to be here tied to a big strong mooring in a sheltered place than out at anchor somewhere. I could pass the time wandering through the town.
One day it dawned fair and although it was still quite windy the strong wind warning had gone. I had originally meant to hop up to Havanna harbour in the north of the island but a rhinoceros beetle scare was on and the whole area had been declared a no go zone.
In this case it was about 80 miles up to Epi, so another night passage was on the cards. I left the mooring in the late afternoon, giving myself a few daylight hours to clear out of Mele bay and get around Devils point which has a reputation for rough seas.
Leaving Port Villa
It was still windy with the wind at the top end of the forecast level of 15 -20 knots and the seas fairly rough and rolly. I settled for a triple reefed main and the staysail and was still making 5 knots.
It turned out to be a long sleepless night largely on account of other traffic. Just before dusk a yacht past going south. Later the first boat approaching from my stern I was able to resolve as would pass my stern and pass on my port side some way off.
The second set of light seemed to be going not that much faster than me and was always seemed to be in the same place astern. Boats around here don’t seem to have AIS, that most valuable tool I couldn’t relax. Hours later it was much closer, its navigation lights hidden by the blaze of 2 great spotlights and it seemed to be heading straight for me. I took the unusual step for me of trying to call them up on channel 16 vhf but could get no response. Maybe they had heard me though as they seemed to change course slightly went past my stern and passed me on my port side. I was quite relieved. I was kept on my toes by more lights ahead, another boat this time going south and passed some way off and I spotted a yachts tricolour some way off. seemed a busy old night so I prudently decided to forgo my usual naps at night.
Dawn revealed Epi ahead and the Shepherd islands way off to the east. One had the perfect volcano cone profile and I wished I was passing it closer. Off the SE corner of Epi there are some submarine volcanoes, quite active apparently, probably not wise to go that way!
The seas were calmer once in the lee of the island and before too long I was lining up the boat to go into Revolieu bay to drop the hook and catch up on a little sleep after a passage of 87 miles and 18 hours.
by chris | Sep 2019 | UK to New Zealand
After a day to rest and relax at Revolieu I set off for Lamen Bay just 13 miles up the coast. There was a strong wind warning out but reasoned in the lee of the island things would be manageable. As often in the lee the winds were very variable and gusty and it seemed to take forever to round Cape Foreland, perhaps the current was against me. As I neared Lamen Bay the wind really piped up and I had a head wind of about 25 knots. There were about 7 boats anchored here but fortunately anchoring went well, it can be tricky in very strong winds and I dropped the hook in 9m and the holding was good in white sand.
Next day the forecast was not looking good 30 knot winds were predicted for the next few days so I moved a little closer inshore to anchor in 6m, reasoning it would be a trifle more sheltered. Shane & Hannah in a NZ cat “Beachlands” offered & helped me in this as sometime is strong winds it is difficult to maintain control raising the anchor whilst single handed.
“Beachlands” took me ashore for coffee at a lovely little spot next morning as I hadn’t yet inflated my dinghy with the winds so strong but I did later and I took a walk along the beach past the village and airstrip and through the conservation zone right up to the NW point of the island. Apparently turtles lay eggs on the beaches in the conservation zone. I had seen lots of turtles swimming about in the bay, but unfortunately didn’t spot any dugongs for which the bay is famous.
One evening I was invited for dinner aboard “Beachlands” with Shane, Hannah & Allanha. Had a nice curry and drinks, a very convivial eve.
We also had a meal at “Benintoes”, the wife of the chief at her lovely little restaurant all decorated with strings of sea shells. We had previously spent some time collecting shells on the beach with her to add to her strings.
Sea shell collecting
After some day the winds eased and all the boats bar me and the French couple I had first met in Anatom, cleared out. I though I would wait a day to give the seas, which had been forecast for 3m swells, more chance to calm down.
I went for a longish walk inland past another village up a very steep hill and then a little south, nice views in parts and very interesting. I planned to leave the next day after picking up some bread that eve baked by Beni for me.
Lamen island from above Lamen bay
by chris | Oct 2019 | UK to New Zealand
I weighed anchor and left Lamen Bay at first light, at first there was no wind but it soon kicked in. I settled on a double reefed main and yankee setting course one through between Lamen Island and the NW tip of Epi for Sangorpitu point on Ambrym. There was some good scenery, to the East was the perfect conical active volcano of Lopevi with a little closer the island of Paama.
Lopevi
Away to the west was the island of Malakula and ahead to the North Ambrym itself with the twin volcanoes of Benbow and Marum.
Benbow & Marum volcanoes, Ambrym
With a good wind I soon made the 27 miles to Craig Cove, but although I ventured into the bay as far as the anchorage I didn’t stop. To my mind it was not sheltered enough , its a deep anchorage too so getting a suitable depth to anchor looked too close to the shore and besides it is said the holding is not good. Since it was still before midday I carried on, rounding Dip point to the lee of the island. I did investigate the anchorage at Baoumi point but there was a little bit of swell here and again it didn’t feel sheltered enough. Carrying on soon the wind increased and I had 30 knots close hauled. I eventually anchored off the black sand beach at Ranvetlan in 7 m. This felt right, more sheltered although the wind was still very strong with williwaws, causing the boat to sheer about quite wildly at times. Miles run 45 in 9hrs 45 mins. I had seen only 1 yacht all day, that anchored in deep water just past Baoumi point.
The wind remained strong with a strong wind warning for the next two days. A NZ boat arrived next afternoon and they later reported that they had had 37 knots of wind. I stayed aboard all day.
On the beach, Ranvetlam
Next day although still windy it wasn’t so bad so I ventured ashore. I met a group of school kids walking back along the beach to their village from school. I walked along the beach and then the track to the village of Ranon. I was greeted by a boy sitting under a huge mango tree who handed me a mango to eat, delicious it was too. The older boys came past fresh out of school and chatted with me. Almost all of them carrying machetes and catapults. The machetes or knives because they are such an essential tool of life here, for clearing tracks through the woods, harvesting fruits and yams, breadfruit and such, the catapults for shooting down mangoes from the trees. Most people, even women & quite young children here always carry a machete or knife all the time
I thought of the situation in England where they wouldn’t be allowed anywhere near school let alone out on the street carrying knives. But there is no violence or stabbings here and it made me think that it is our politicans and police that have it wrong. It is not the carrying of knives that is wrong or the problem, it is the hatred in peoples hearts that begets the violence.
I had a walk through the village and ate a plate of rice and meat at a sort of fundraiser. Saw some wood and stone carvings.
Samuel & his carvings
Boars tusk pendant
Another day I walked along the coast past what I took to be the the ruins of a copra plant to the other village Ranveltan, returning a little way inland by the track.
Unloading stores at Ranon
Leaving here I sailed back to Baoumi point to investigate the hot springs there. However with it being so far into the dry season, they were dried up. There was just a slight sulphurous smelling pool of still water behind the black sand beach. I pressed on inland up the course of the river but it was dried up too.
Beach at Baouma Point
Returning to the beach a bit of a swell had started so it was time to clear out quickly. Back past Ranon I anchored at Nupol.
Nopul village
Ashore next day I walked along the track past the village of Magham to Olal. Here I was lucky as they were sacking up the copra, carrying it down the beach to a lighter to tack out to a freighter anchored offshore outside the reef.
I was a given a new fruit for me a Ningauvung or Rose Apple- a bit like a pear in texture. Here by the stamped earth ground of what looked liked a meeting place by the kava shack were some of the wooden carvings that are distinctive off the island. Ambrym is a centre of magic in Vanuatu and home to the Rom dance. Unfortunately it is the wrong time of year for me to see any.
Carvings at Olal
Magam notice board – can you translate the Bislama?
Another walk took me along the coast and then inland into the hills. I was hoping to get to the village of Fanla, a kastum village but I took a wrong turning. Back on the main track I met a man just returning from his garden in the forest carrying what turned out to be nuts in his turned up t-shirt. He said if I had time he would take me to his house and crack some for me. We walked into the village and outside his hut he had a special stone with a depression in, the nut was stood up on end and crack with a hammer. Tasty they were. His brothers all came around to say hello. When I left he gave me 2 fresh bread rolls still warm from the oven and a pawpaw.
House in village
Cracking nuts
I am just continually knocked out by the friendlyness of the NiVans. They have so little but are so generous