SEA BEAR

 

A sailing blog about a skipper and his yacht

A trip to the Roach

Up early to catch the ebb and motored off down the river, no wind at first but the boat felt livelier after the scrub. Hoisted the main by Orwell buoy and by Harwich Shelf we had yankee and staysail set and  the engine was off. By and by we were past Walton pier, out to the Wallet buoys and our first tack of the day. The sun was out the winds light, all very pleasant and the tide about to turn in my favour. Sometime later just short of the Spitway the wind died so back to motoring but not for long, crossing the Spitway the wind returned and more strongly 17 to 18 knots. Somehow I let my attention slip, no excuse really but it was windy and bouncy, I should have put a reef in, slowed things down, took more care. I  missed the turn down to the Whitaker and found myself by Maplin entrance, oops. Mistake rectified by a little backtracking and off down the Whitaker channel. This was hard going hard on the wind and had to pinch at times to keep in the channel. Eventually we were in the Crouch and then I turned into the Roach and dropped anchor in Quay reach. 44 nmiles and 10 hours.

Quay reach anchorage R Roach

Quay reach anchorage R Roach

Perhaps not surprisingly next day I felt tired. I had a late breakfast of bacon and eggs and then fell asleep in the cockpit. A sign to take it easy so I did remaining at anchor all day. Next day dawned sunny and fine again but little wind so I motored up the river to Paglesham. Here I picked up a vacant mooring, inflated the dinghy and rowed ashore by Shuttlewood’s boatyard. The old black timber shed is now gone, damaged beyond repair by winters gales. A walk along an unmade lane soon took me the fine old weatherboarded pub of the Plough and Sail. Very pleasant to sit in the sun and sample some good ale, Wallasea Wench brewed by George’s was particularly fine as was Malden Gold from the Mighty Oak Brewery. The inner man satisfied I returned to the boat to enjoy the peace and serenity of this spot up the river.

Plough & Sail

Plough & Sail

The following day back down the Roach and I turned up the Crouch running under just the yankee. The Crouch was almost eerily quiet, hardly any boats moving and so many vacant mooring buoys opposite Burnham. I ran up as far as Cliff Foot where I anchored awhile deciding to proceed no further. Later I returned to the Roach and anchored in Quay reach, this time across the other side as the wind was from the NE.

Sod’s law of course meant that the wind had switched to the NE for my journey back up the Whitaker. I left early and at hour there was just a breath of wind so motoring with it on the nose was not so bad.  Passing Whitaker no5 I headed over to the Swallowtail and followed this up to the Spitway. The wind had gradually built to about 12 – 15 knots so at last I could sail.  Abeam wind across the Spitway then tacking up the Wallet, at least it is wide so long tacks. By Stone Banks the wind had increased to 17- 20 knots. Closing in on Felixstowe I dowsed the staysail, partly for control, partly for better visibility forward in these crowded waters. One of the benefits of the yankee is its high cut foot  much easier to see under than a genoa. The wind past the docks is always fickle and suddenly it went from 20 knots to none. On with the engine but then there was the shriek of the water alarm from the engine so I stopped the engine. Fortunately or well timed arrival meant a flood tide up the river so after it carried us pass the Orwell Buoy I headed towards the bank and dropped the anchor. I quick prod cleared any blockage in the water inlet but I thought to check the impellor whilst at it and yes cracks in the vanes so I replaced that with my last spare. I sailed back to the mooring just using the engine for the last  manoeuvre to pick up the mooring. Put the boat to bed and next morning rowed ashore and went home.

A scrub for Sea Bear

A scrub for Sea Bear

Sea Bear on scubbing posts

Sea Bear on scubbing posts

An early morning drive followed by a row out in the cub took me out to the boat. Fouling seemed particularly bad this year and Sea Bear had  been very sluggish on the last trip. I thought it was time for a bottom scrub. I had originally planed to do this via a swim but  two things persuaded me against the idea. Firstly the water was quite choppy in the afternoon and past experience had showed me this made the task difficult and unpleasant or should I say even more difficult and unpleasant.  Secondly the water in the Orwell is so murky that you cannot see what you are doing. Ok only thing then  was to utilise the scrubbing post on Pin Mill hard. Accordingly just before high water next day find me manoeuvering alongside the posts and making secure, a tricky business single handed but we managed. Then come the nervous wait for the tide to ebb, adjusting the lines and ensuring that the boat sits upright on her keel, ideally with a very slight lean into the posts. As soon as the water was low enough, on with the wet suit and overboard to start the scrub. It is best to have water to brush off as you scrub still it is a bit of a race  to get it all down before you are left high and dry. Surprisingly the weed wasn’t too bad but there were lots of small barnacles and the prop was very badly fouled with barnacles and growth. Looked liked the antifoul hadn’t worked on that at all. Job done time, for tea and dinner and then a little nap waiting for the tide to return. It was around 3.15 am when we were afloat again, time to free the boat for its multitude of securing lines and motor  back out the mooring. It was a very dark night so great care needed to avoid all the other moored boats and spot the pick up buoy. I always prefer to do this without a torch which I find spoils one’s night vision but it does make it tricky. Safely done and so to bed.

June sailing

At long last it looked like some good weather was on the way  so I headed off down to the boat. High water was around 10pm. I took advantage after readying the dinghy and parking the car by having a nice pint of Adnams Ghost Ship at the Butt & Oyster before rowing out to Sea Bear with the last of the light. There is always some relief when you arrive and find all well with the boat. 

A beer at the Butt & Oyster

A beer at the Butt & Oyster

Tide times and light at times almost non existent winds precluded any plans for going far so a couple of sorties down the Orwell and back. At least it was warm, and relaxing. Then one day after endless tacking down to the docks at Felixstowe the clouds arrived and the rain poured down and the wind disappeared. On with the engine and motored down to anchor at Copperas Bay. At least the rain. stopped and I could dry out. Next day although I tried to sail but no wind so motored down past Harwich and then with a little wind could sail to Pye End with a couple of tacks. Down the Pye channel to the Backwaters it was touch and go hard on the wind. Then glancing over my shoulder a coaster that goes to the explosives factory up Oakley Creek steaming up the channel. It is a narrow channel but just before high water so plenty of room to move over and for it to pass no problem. And so to anchor in Hamford water. 

Gaffer at Hampton water

Gaffer at Hampton water

Out next day a run out down the channel under main and yankee. Out by Pye End I turned and sailed towards Stone Bank. Slow going with a light wind and against the ebb but relaxing. By the buoy I turned for home. Lost the wind closing into Harwich so finished under engine. The forecast remained for very light winds so although it had been a few pleasant warm days (apart from the afternoon of rain) the lack of wind was frustrating and too much motoring needed so headed off home.

When will summer come?

Latish in May I was back out to the boat. After the drive down I launched the cub and rowed out to Sea Bear on her mooring. As it was dry I decided to tackle the leaky dorade box. After taking out all the screws I carefully used a slim scraper to break the old sealant and lift off the dorade box. At first I couldn’t spot any obvious leakage spot but on a good clean up I saw a hole apparently drilled through the deck near by the standup pipe. What! I thought, anyway that would be easy to fill. I spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning off the box itself and getting ready to refit. thought I would leave that until the morning.

Now normally I lift off the outboard and take the oars from the dinghy before the night. By a combination of a crick in my back, laziness and just stupidity I didn’t. Woke in the night by splashing. Sammy the seal had decided to visit and climbing into the dinghy had upset the oars for one to go off drifting in the darkness never to be seen again. Drat.

In the morning I refitted the dorade box, bedding it on some fresh sealant. Then it was time to bail out the dinghy. I decided I needed  a new oar, I did have a set of old ones from an inflatable but they wouldn’t be very useful. It being near high water, off to the pontoon and thence ashore and a nip to Fox’s. At least I didn’t have to buy a pair. That was enough excitement for the day.

Next day dawned, misty and drizzly with hardly any wind but I set off down the Orwell under sail making very slow progress, still what was the rush? I lost track of time but eventually an empty belly prompted a time check. Blimey 12.30 and I was only just as far as Orwell buoy. OK so engine on and make for Pye End buoy. I was just about to turn towards the channel to the backwaters when there was a change in engine note, a quick look behind and white steam from the exhaust shortly followed by the water alarm on the engine. So engine off, no wind but at least plenty of searoom. First I checked that the inlet was not blocked, no that was clear ok the impellor. Now on a Yanmar 2GM, it is not the brightest design, as you have to take off the water pump and associated plumbing to get access. Still I have had a bit of practise at this and tools at hand, some done revealing a shredded impellor.  In with a new one, pump reassemled and refitted and we were back in business. A little later we dropped anchor in Hamford water and the sun was finally  out.

Rain overnight finally cleared. A lazy day at anchor with strong winds and choppy seas making me forgoing any plans to explore up the creeks in the dinghy.  Surprisingly few boats around.

I left the next day just before high water running down the channel under Yankee alone with a strong SW’rly of about 15 knots. This increased to around 20 knots and it was a little rolly run back up to and past Felixstowe and so back to the mooring. It was bank holiday monday so I suppose you shouldn’t expect good weather.

Very overcast in the morning, windy too. It soon started raining. A pretty gloomy day and not warm either. When will summer come?  The forecast spoke of a complex low centered on the North Sea, strong NW winds. I had had enough so headed off home.

broken impellor

May shakedown cruise

misty morning on the Orwell

At the end of April Sea Bear was put back on her mooring by the boatyard, so on the last day of the month I loaded the cub on the trailer and drove down. After loading the cub then parking up the car and trailor I rowed out to the boat. It was a bit windy and the water choppy but at least it was sunny and  it wasn’t cold. First things first , a cup of tea then  provisions stored in the lockers then time to cook tea.

 Next morning there were a few jobs left over from fitting out, spray dodgers to fit, jackstays, the running back stays and self steering lines all taken at a leisurely pace. The morning sun was lost as it clouded over and there was rain in the eve.

 The following day brought a flat calm but  by mid morning a very light breeze had filled in. I slipped the mooring and motored down river as far as Colimer before there was sufficient wind to sail. Out past Harwich shelf cardinal which I noted was a new and out to  Outer Ridge buouy . Here I turned around and sailed back to the mooring. A nice shakedown cruise with pleasant weather.

 The next 2 days were a bit of a washout, thunder and lightening overnight which cleared in the morning but no wind and then it was persistent rain. This revealed a leak above the chart table, taking down the headlining panel showed a leaky dorade fitting.

 Saturday the weather was better and with a decent SE of about 8 – 10 knots breeze we set off. Down the river, and tacking out through the harbour and once clear could set a course for the Wallet. A relaxing gentle sail, only difficulty was a haze which made picking out the north Eagle cardinal difficult. Never mind later we set the anchor in Pyefleet, quite a few other boats here.

 There was very thick mist in the morning but it did burn off later. Had a lazy day,  I had thought to row the dinghy across to Brightlingsea but decided it was a bit choppy for that.

May day bank holiday and as the tide was about to turn I weighed anchor. Weather didn’t look too promising, rain was forecast and it was misty. Out down the channel and with wind from NE I decided to take a course past Eagle and Knoll. One long tack out past Swin to Gunfleet and the tack towards Clacton then back out. By Midday the rain started but with the self steering working I could spend most of the time sheltering under the sprayhood. Several tacks later we were passing Walton pier then out towards Medusa before turning towards Felixstow. The wind was picking up to around 20 knots so a reef tucked in the main and a roll or two on the Yankee. Later we were safely back on the mooring. Rather strangely, despite the rain, poor visibility the wind and the tacking it had been and enjoyable and satisfying sail

An Unsatisfactory Cruise

Other commitments prevented me from getting away on the boat before July.  My plans had undergone several revisions from originally thinking of another Biscay crossing with a possible Atlantic crossing, now I just thought I might head west along the South Coast perhaps to the Scillies or even Ireland.

It took two trips out in the dinghy to ferry all my gear and provisions out to the boat.  I had charts and pilot books covering from Gibraltor to Ireland and all places in between so I was ready to go where fancy took me.

To Ramsgate and Dover

Setting out early from Pin Mill, sunrise and tides fell nicely into place. First light and the last hours of the ebb to take me down the Orwell and then to pick up the flood to cross the Thames Estuary. No wind at first but you set out hoping  that it will fill in later. Only to be disappointed on this occasion, so we motored out down the Medusa channel, across the head of the Gunfleet sand and to the Black Deep. Through the London Array windfarm via Foulgers Gat and so to North Foreland  and into Ramsgate. 

Peaceful evening in Ramsgate

Peaceful evening in Ramsgate

Next day was just a short hop down to Dover and into the new marina here. In the afternoon I walked along to and the up the famous White Cliffs

The bad news was a gale forecast and everyone was staying put. The morning was fine and I took the opportunity to walk up to Dover Castle, but I didn’t visit as was shocked by the price of admission, £29 for a concession i.e. pensioner. My thought was that English Heritage were pricing out the less affluent members of our society from our heritage. A continuation of my walk took me to the Bleriot Memorial on top of the white cliffs. The spot where Louis Bleriot landed after the first aeroplane crossing of the Channel. Gradually the wind was building and rain arrived in the afternoon. It was certainly a wild night, shrieking wind and lashing rain. 

 

White cliffs of Dover

White cliffs of Dover

To Newhaven

When the bad weather had passed I carried on. It was light winds as far as Dungeness but then it picked up – on the nose of course. I decided that to make decent progress I would need to motorsail. Later we had rain and mist. I had decided to go inland of the Royal Sovereign shoals. I did wonder about this decision as I had  bad visibility for this section, fortunately there is a yellow special purpose buoy  which gives good guidance although it was far from easy to spot in the conditions.  A short step took us around Beachy Head and thereafter  to Newhaven on a falling wind. Calling port control they warned me a ferry was due  but let me enter so I was soon tied up to the visitors pontoon. It had been a long day.

My sister lives not far from Newhaven so she and two of my nieces visited me next day bringing  a picnic and then we had a walk past the old abandoned village of Tide Mills to Seaford.

Leaving Newhaven

Leaving Newhaven

To Littlehampton

The forecast for the next day was not good with strong winds arriving later. I judged that I had time to make my next objective of Littlehampton it before that arrived. I set off with sunshine but later it clouded over looking more gloomy and threatening. With a strong headwind progress was not fast so I resorted to the engine for the last miles, to ensure arriving at the favourable tidal state. Tidal access to Littlehampton is quite limiting, 2 hrs either side of HW to cross the bar. I wanted to ensure entry before HW as I didn’t fancy entering on a falling tide plus having the fight the ebb. This was a harbour I had never visited before and  entering an unknown harbour is often a little worrying. It was with some relief at I got in in good time but I was a little surprised on the strength of the flood down what felt like a very narrow entry channel with about 55 minutes of flood remaining. Still I could turn that to good use by turning into the stream when by the visitors pontoon and ferry gliding into a berth all nice and under control.

Shortly after arriving drizzle and rain started. The wind and rain continued all night and most of the next morning. It did eventually stop but it stayed dull overcast and drizzly all day. Next day more drizzle and bad visibility, that and a poor forecast of SW 4-6 persuaded me to stay put. When the day eventually brightened it was of course too late for the tide but I did manage a walk along the West beach.

 Next day Saturdays forecast was SW 5-6 occasionally 7, there was early rain, brighter later but very windy.

Sunday brought no relief SW 5-7 perhaps 8 later, a miserable day of rain and drizzle with high winds

Monday was similar SW 5 or 6 occasionally 7 at first

Littlehampton entrance

Littlehampton entrance

Littlehampton to Newhaven

I was beginning to feel trapped here in Littlehampton. The long range forecast spoke of a higher than usual risk of strong winds and the weather remaining very unsettled. I had looked at the entrance channel a few time and it didn’t look inviting with strong winds. A further problem was that trying to go west, if you exited Littlehampton at high water, the best time, the tide was ebbing down the English Channel. With SW winds, not only would you have to fight the tide but it would be a wind against tide situation and so rough sea conditions. Not nice at all. I came to the conclusion or decision that I would give up trying to go west wards and return to the east. Disappointing but I later meet couple of other sailors who had arrived at the same conclusion.

Accordingly on Tuesday I decided to make  a break for it. The forecast was not promising W 5-6 backing SW 4- 6 veering W 6-7 later but at least the tide would be with me and the wind behind. Out through the channel and over the bar I put 3 reefs in the main and hoisted the staysail. I was quite surprised to see another yacht in the distance so I thought I am not the only mad one. The seas were quite rough and it was quite a wild ride. I had to hand steer most of the time due to the conditions and at time I was wondering whether I should really be out here. In the late afternoon  with some relief I entered Newhaven and tied up to the visitors pontoon.

With strong wind and rain all night and gales forecast for Tuesday I needed no other excuse to stay put. The barometer dropped from 1025 to 987 so it was quite some low passing though.

In the morning, It was interesting and slightly worrying to watch the car ferry turn around in the harbour, there is barely room for it to do so. Normally they reverse out down the channel and turn around outside, however in bad conditions with rough seas it is understandable why they do not want to do this.

Although the wind had dropped I thought to wait a day for the sea state to calm down. I walked along the west beach and then up Castle hill, good to stretch the legs and get some exercise. I sat in the sun and had a cuppa at Castle cafe where I chatted with  the master of one of the Cats that service the offshore wind farm. Turned out he was a keen sailor himself, keeping his boat in Brittany. Back by the pontoon he showed me around his service cat, lots of high tech and very impressive. Interestingly as well as electronic logs they are required to keep an “old fashioned” paper log.

A couple in a bilge keeler moved onto the visitors pontoon from a drying berth as they wanted to leave early next day to catch the tide eastwards. Had a long chat with them, they were digital nomads, living on their boat with their ships cat and slowly progressing around the UK. Later that evening we visited the local pub for a meal and a couple of beers.

Ferry turning in Newhaven

Ferry turning in Newhaven

Newhaven to Dover

Just before LW our two boats slipped away from the pontoon and out of the harbour. It was quite novel for me to have a buddy boat. We had a good sail to round Beachy Head after which the other boat headed inshore as they were bound for Eastbourne. I carried on, this time I decided to past off shore of the Royal Sovereign Shoals. The breeze wasn’t to last however and by midday I was motoring in a flat calm under increasingly gloomy skies. Dungeness came and went and then approaching Dover it was very heavy rain with very poor visibility, very undesirable for closing Dover and all the concentration of ferries and shipping. Fortunately it didn’t last too long and cleared just in time to close the western entrance and enter the harbour and thence the marina.Dover to Pin Mill 

The bad news was that more bad weather was on the way, this time storm Antonio so more time harbour bound.

I was finally able to get away a few days later. Firstly I need to refuel, the fuel berth in the new marina was not yet functional so I needed to  exit the marina and go past  the Prince Of Wells pierced tower and then transit the  Wick channel to get to the old fuel berth in the old tidal dock. the wind was still strong which took me a little by surprise as the new marina is very sheltered with high walls. I’ll confess I made a bit of a pigs ear of going alongside the fuel dock, my fenders and lines were on the wrong side and I thought I would get away berthing with the wind on my stern. Ha no way so I had to go around again and change fenders and lines to the other side and even then I struggled. Still no damage apart from to my pride and looking like a right amateur. Exiting the eastern entrance it was surprising rough but some distance away it settled down a little. Before long I was up by the Goodwin bell. I decided I would try the old sailing anchorage of the Small Downs inshore here rather than go to Ramsgate.  It was  not quite smooth here but with the hook down I thought it acceptable and could cook some tea.  

I didn’t have a bad night  and just before dawn saw me up and under way to make the most of the tide. I headed out to the South Brake and then turned up the Gull Stream and fairly soon I had the Broadstairs Knoll buoy to port. Unfortunately I was now hard on the wind and bashing into the waves meant progress was very slow. I bore it for a while but decided to motor sail to make decent progress. Closing the entrance to Foulgers Gat to pass though the London Array was particularly trying with the wind now right on the nose and nasty waves. Past the dog leg in the channel and it was better, I could sail again and dispense with the engine. Exiting the Gat conditions were more favourable, wind and waves abating, the sun was shining, it was turning into an enjoyable sail. Up the edge of the Black deep until nearby Sunk head and then cut across Sunk sand and then the head of Gunfleet sands. Closing the vicinity of Medusa it was growing gloomy but I still had a fair wind. Passing Cliff foot and Harwich entrance and Felixstowe I entered the Orwell. It started to drizzle, the wind died and then it rained hard with very misty conditions .

By the time I was back at the mooring I was quite drenched. It seemed an appropriate finish to a what had been an unsuccessful cruise.