by chris ayres | Jul 2017 | UK to New Zealand
Staying at Marina Papeete I was able to complete a few maintenance jobs, chase around after a sailmaker and get the leaky dinghy repaired, that is as well as a little exploring of the town, dining out at the Roulettes (mobile food vans) at the plaza and quaffing a few beers with friends, Thom from Fathom, Adva from Waterhoen, Oceana and Alice from Danika and Dan from My Dream were all here.
Then it was off to the airport in the early hours to meet my best friend Wendy who flew out from UK to join me for a while. She had bought out my new camera. Gave her a traditional Tahitian greeting of a garland of flowers.
Tahiti welcome for Wendy
After a few days we headed to anchor off Maeve beach just a few miles away, a very popular anchorage this off Marina Tanina, with maybe about 150 boats at anchor.
Dawn at Maeve Beach
My new GPS/plotter arrived to replace the old GPS with burnt out screen, that will make navigation a deal easier.
We had an aborted go at reaching the south of the island, but turned back before exiting the pass in the reef when wind and rain arrived but after a couple of days set out again. Out through the reef via pass Tappuna with dolphins for company we sailed south then turning Pointe de Marua we followed the reefs to Teputa pass which we entered and proceeded to anchor at Port du Phaeton, a lovely lagoon behind the reef which was so sheltered that it felt like you were anchored in a lake.
at anchor Port du Phaeton
Here we tried to visit the Gauguin museum, a few miles along the coast, but it was shut for refurb so we contented ourselves with a walk around the botanical gardens there, then back to Tavarao on the bus for a delicious lunch, tuna of course.
Bassin de Papeari
by chris ayres | Jul 2017 | UK to New Zealand
Today I feel a little sad because yesterday eve Wendy caught her flight back to the UK. I really enjoyed having her company and we had some good fun together.
Wendy
After a few days at Port du Phaeton we continued our circumnavigation of Tahiti. First we sailed inside the reef to anchor by Teehupoo, here the road around the island ends and next day exited the reef by pass Havae with amazing surf to left and right.
Surf at Passe Havae
Rounding the SE tip of the island we carried on and once more entered behind the reefs by Passe d’ Aiurua and anchor in the lee of a tall cliff by Paofai. only a few scattered huts along this coast as the only access is by sea. Carrying on we next stopped after Passe Faatautia. Here the anchorage was very deep and we had to let out all 45m of chain and 40 m of rope rode.
Raising the anchor the next morning without a windlass we resorted to use of a mooring warp tied to the chain with a rolling hitch and led back to the primary winches, 30 m of free hanging chain and an anchor being too heavy to haul or even hold by hand. The reefs in the next section of coast are mostly submerged and harder to spot so we maintained a good offing until we got to Point Venus where we anchored off a beautiful back sand beach in just 6 m. This bay was visited by the Bounty (before the mutiny) and Captain Cook and the point derives its name from the observatory set up by Cook to observe the transit of Venus.
Point Venus
Amazingly in the days since Port du Phaeton we saw only ! other cruising boat, it seems rare these days for cruiser to sail around Tahiti.
Off then for the short sail to Moorea, Tahitis smaller sister. We anchored just inside the reef at the entrance to Cook’s Bay, that man again, a most idyllic spot with water so clear we could see our anchor on the bottom and the occasional passing ray. A couple of night here and we moved to anchor deep within Cooks bay itself amidst most spectacular peaks. We walked up the valley, named the route de Annas, to a pineapple plantation and then continued up well marked trails in the forest past several Mairae (ancient ceremonial platforms) to a viewpoint called the Belvedere from where you could see down into both Cook’s bay and Baie d’Opunohu. Carrying on through the forest we came to another wonderful viewpoint of Col des Trois Pines, before returning back to the boat.
View from Trois Pines
It was a tiring but well worthwhile day. Truely this is a garden of Eden.
Moving around to Baie d’Opunohu, maybe even more spectacular in scenery than Cook’s bay, we anchored inside the reef near the entrance off the small village of Papetoai.
Baie d’Opunohu
We took a long dinghy ride, the channel across too shallow for yachts to an area called Sting Ray City. Here there is a shallow sandy area where you can stand chest deep and snorkel frequented by sting rays and reef sharks. The local tour guides encourage them by feeding the rays. It was thrilling to swim with these magnificent creatures and feel them brush past you with their wings and allow themselves to be petted. I don’t have a water-proof camera unfortunately but my friend Thom on Fathom was there earlier and took some footage which you can see on his blog www.yatchfathom.co.uk
Sadly our time in Moorea was up and we had to return to Tahiti.The weather had been grand for the past weeks with gentle winds but shortly after exiting the pass through the reef it started to blow. We soon had 30-35 knots of wind which kicked up with big waves, a short and horrible breaking sea. Of course it was dead on the nose as well. It was iff the weather was telling us not to leave Morrea and we both wished we could have stayed but Wendy’s flight was the next day so we had to press on. Later the wind eased to about 20-25 knots and the when we were nearing Tahiti dropped away altogether but still leaving of course a sloppy sea. Eventually we were back inside the reef via Papeete harbour and soon past the airport to anchor once more at Maeva Bay near marina Taina. Here we recognised lots of boats still at anchor in the same spots as when we left weeks ago.
With Wendy gone its back to single handing. I will stay here some days myself as I must wait for my new staysail to be finished.
by chris ayres | Aug 2017 | UK to New Zealand
I took delivery of my new staysail and very good it looked but being so new the material is stiff and slippery so its going to be difficult to handle for a while.
Before leaving Tahiti I caught a bus to Papeete to pay a visit to Customs to get the paperwork for duty free fuel. Next morning I went to the fuel dock and filled up with diesel before heading out through the reef at Passe Taapuna and setting a course for the north of Moorea. We had a fair wind for once so not to waste it I decided to forgo stopping at Moorea again and headed out for the Iles Sous Le Vent. These comprise the islands of Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora.
We were making good progress with a nice beam wind until shortly after sunset when the wind died, progress was then fitful until in the end I started the engine and motored. With the dawn Huahine was in sight in the distance and although I had originally planned to miss this island out, since it was closer, a slight course alteration took me there.
Passing the reef to the west of the island was a sobering sight of a catamaran wrecked high and dry on the reef. I had heard about this whilst still in Tahiti, and had meet theAmerican family briefly when I was in Shelter Bay Panama. They had sailed too close to the reef in the night and paid the price, fortunately they were all airlifted off safely.
A few miles further on we entered the reef by Passe Avapehi and anchored near by the town of Fare. Here in the anchorage was Anne & Richard on Morphious, so it was good to see these friends.
Anchorage at Fare, Huahine
I spent a day with them on a motor car tour of the island, not something I normally do but it was interesting and we saw all the sights.
Lunch Polynesian proportions
Boys bicycles & surf boards
Marea
Fisherman & pet pig
On then for the 20 mile passage to the twin islands of Raiatea and Tahaa, both within the same encircling lagoon. Had a nice gentle beam wind of about 10 knots for this crossing. Entering by Passe Iriru between two motus we proceeded up to the head of Baie Faaroa to anchor. Here I took the dinghy up the navigable Aoppumau river, a good little trip. Opposite the site of the botanical gardens, closed for refurbishment, a man beckoned us across to the opposite bank and took us on a tour of his plantation, giving us a green coconut to drink, very refreshing and showing us his bananas, taro, guava, squashes, cucumbers,mangos and more. Truly paradise, left with gifts of taro & bananas and some beautiful flowers. The people here are good.
Next day I motored inside the lagoon following the marked channel up to the North end of Raiatea and across to Tahaa where I followed the long Baie Haamene to anchor of the village at it’s head.
Flowers on the boat
It isn’t always sunny here in Polynesia and we have had a day of rain and the cloud has been down so I can barely see across the bay. Went ashore briefly in a period when it was just drizzle to get some bread from the supermarket but returning it rained and rained and getting back to the boat I had to strip off in the cockpit and ring out my shorts and vest before going below. Let us hope for better tomorrow.
by chris ayres | Aug 2017 | UK to New Zealand
shack on reef Raitea
Haamene
I went for a nice walk from Haamene bay over to the over (western side) of the island to the village of Tiva, mainly on roads but very quiet ones and also a track which turned out to be a dead end but with a very nice view down into the bay. It was good to get some exercise and see some more of the island.
Haamene bay, Tahaa
That eve it blew up some and the wind was funnelling right down the bay making the anchorage very choppy and a lee-shore to boot. A disturbed night followed and I kind of regretted not moving anchorage yesterday instead of going for the long walk. With the wind at 25 knots it wasn’t fun hauling the anchor and it came up covered in thick black mud, but there was no time to wash it off, it would have to wait. I moved around to Opu bay and picked up a mooring here. The wind still whistled over the low point but it was protected from the waves. The wind persisted next day and I would have stayed here but I was on a Pearl farm visitors mooring and they wanted it for their guests so I moved back to Riaitea and moored off Marina Apooiti. The one problem with French Polynesia is that most of the anchorages are deep, which with me having no windlass limits me somewhat at times. At least moored here I was conveniently close to Passe Rautoanui, the main all weather western pass through the reefs.
Early next morning with a better forecast I exited the reef and set a course for Bora Bora some 25 miles away. Apart from a brief period of calm I had a good sail.
Sea Bear on way to Bora Bora
Richard and Anne in Morpheous past me later in their Island Packet 42. The reef of Bora Bora is a long way offshore on the SW corner so needs a good offing, but helpfully is marked by a big beacon.
Bora Bora
Following the reef edge northwards I arrived at Passe Teavanui, the only entrance to the lagoon and was soon at the mooring field of the Bora Bora yacht club. Here Richard was helpfully by the only free mooring in his dinghy, they had seen me arrive through the pass chased by a big catamaran and kindly thought to save the mooring for me. The mooring was very close to the dock of the yacht club, I could almost step ashore for drinks. I moved to a mooring a little further out in the morning when one became free.
The forecast for the next week was not great with bad weather and high winds moving in and persisting all week so it looked like a period of hunkering down and waiting it out was in order.
I did get to walk to Vaitape, the main town, a few times and I also dug out the Brompton from the forward stowage and got to cycle around the island, about 20 or so miles which was very enjoyable.
Bora Bora ride
But it was time to leave French Polynesia, I have spent almost 4 months here. I suppose one question you could ask yourself about whether you like a place or not is whether you could live there. The answer is this case is yes. I liked the islands, the lagoons, the water, the climate, the people and the laid back lifestyle.
Anyway I have started off the clearance process by visiting the gendarmerie and filling in all the forms, I just have to go back after the weekend and pick up my clearance for the Cook islands, about 600 miles away, where I am bound for next. The forecasts are looking improved for next week so here is hoping.
by chris ayres | Sep 2017 | UK to New Zealand
I Ieft Bora Bora on Monday, it was about midday when I got away after a delay with clearance papers and a visit to the supermarket to spend my remaining Polynesian francs. In my muddle headed thoughts i was looking to arrive at Aitutaki before the weekend and catch the high tide on Fri about 11am thinking 485 miles should take 5 days so leave Mon arrive Fri. Wrong thats only 4 days travelling!
Wind and waves were a bit fiesty that first afternoon but forecast was to lessen so ok and anyway not so fiesty as to prevent me cooking a proper meal that first eve (couscous, fried veg and sauce, since you ask!)
The wind did ease off in the night but don’t you know it down to about 8 to 10 knots so was never going to make my 100 miles per day anyway. It stayed like that for 4 days, it is so easy to loose track of time and days, fairly calm conditions although since sailing almost directly downwind a little rolly at times.
One night I had a passenger aboard , just as it was getting dark a brown boobie was circling the boat determindely and after one abortive effort landed on the solar panel, whereupon began a thorough and vigorous preening session after which he settled down to roost with head tucked under wing. It stayed all night and left just after dawn next morning.
Overnight passenger
The light in the compass packed up but I managed to solder in a new bulb next morning. it is a little on the bright side now and i will have to try and get a led for it at some time rather than a normal bulb.
As you are not allowed to take any fruit or vegetables into the Cook islands with you, I set off low on these and soon had only some onions left. At least I have lots of tinned stuff so wont go hungry.
Before I reached Aitutaki we had a bit of a blow! The wind picked up Friday eve and blew strong for 3 days. I got to about 6 miles off the entrance to channel through reef at Aitutaki about 6 am Sun, but was blowing about 25 knots, grey overcast sky, drizzling and threatening black cloud so decide not to risk trying to get in. The entrance through the reef is long narrow and shallow and not much room once inside either. With no visibility I wasn’t even going to look and be tempted so a simple decision really to carry on. Shame to have to miss out the Cook Islands but thats the way it is.
Soon the wind really picked up to about 30 knots and more in gusts, I handed the main and just ran under staysail, sea was a bit boisterous.
Tues morning and still lots of wind, it hadn’t really let up since Fri, never known it to be so windy for so long. Still just running under staysail only which is pulling us along nicely. Weather has improved in that it has been sunny with some clouds but the constant movement of the boat makes life a little hard.
What a great invention is tinned french casoulet though, just have to heat it up and a complete meal, glad I bought a few tins.
It was too windy to call in at Palmerston, a great shame and if it continues will be too unsettled to stop at Niue either as no harbour there, just some moorings outside the reef. At least at Vava’u Tonga there is well protected harbour with a straightforward entrance so if it continues like this should be ok thats about 500 or so miles yet so a ways to go.
Thurs night (I think it was) was particularly bad with the boat movement, my normal bunk was untenable the other just as bad with the rolling and for a while I wedged myself in the quarter berth but had to scrunched up in the end to get wedged in so that wasn’t so good either so back to port berth with lee-cloth up. Glad to say wind and waves have been better since, wind has dropped a little and swell calmed down. Re-hoisted the main with 2 reefs and even got some yankee up.
Sighted Niue around 6 Fri night, glad to see it before it went dark so knew my course was ok and wasn’t going to run into it! It would have been possible to stop there as weather was ok but I thought it best to carry on whilst I had better sailing weather.
Sun morning I looked out of the hatch around 5 am and it was as black as the ace of spades, seems like the weather hadn’t done with me yet, it came on to blow and rain, 35 knots or more, thoroughly unpleasant, I handed the main and was just under staysail again, when I got it sorted and checked my course i was going NE as the wind had switched about 90 degrees from N to S so got that put right then retired to cabin dripping wet. it rained until the afternoon but stayed windy all day and night. The only saving grace was I had plenty of sea room, about 100 miles and there are no ships out here.
This area is the South Pacific Convergence Zone, noted for unstable weather. Its about 230 miles on to Vava’u Tonga from Niue. hopefully get there for Monday, only since it is the other side of the international date line it would be Tuesday, I loose a day and will be 1 day ahead of UK. Fair does my head in even if I use world clock on my iphone
Monday/ Tuesday eve
Approaching Toga I came around the north of the island and saw a humpback whale which was great, and then
down the West side of the island to the channel in. I was glad that it’s a fairly easy entrance though unmarked. I wasn’t helped by it blowing really strong, a head wind of course once I got to the entrance, but got far enough to pick up the lighted buoys before it was really dark, there was a full moon so should have been fine but it was very cloudy couldn’t see the moon so it was no help.
I got in to Neiafu , Vavau around 8pm and picked up a mooring, pleased and relieved to be in safely after a passage of 1275 nautical miles.
Neiafu harbour
Having an end of passage beer with Dan who I met in the Marquesas
by chris ayres | Sep 2017 | UK to New Zealand
New country, the first job is to complete formalities. Arriving in the dark as I had I had picked up a mooring buoy. Next morning I had to move over to the dockside flying a yellow quarantine flag. The first official to visit was the quarantine officer, to check that you are not bringing any banned products like fruit and veg in with you or carrying bugs on the boat. Into town then, to the bank, work out the exchange rate and to get some local currency to pay the fees. Next to customs office to fill in a great wadge of forms, always a trifle irksome because you have the repeat the same information ie boat name, your name, ships registration, length of boat etc etc over and over again. Lastly the health officer to see if you are healthy and not bringing disease with you . The fee for this goes to the local hospital.
Then it was back to a mooring buoy.
The next few days were spent here in Neiafu, a few jobs to do on the boat first. The major one was to overhaul the wind vane steering as a bush had gone on passage. To replace this I first had to take the self steering gear of the back of the boat so I could diss-assemble it in the cockpit. Stripped down and cleaned up I replaced the bush and bearings, thankful that I had the spares on hand, reassembled and refitted. Last item a bit tricky because its a weighty beast and a dinghy not the most stable platform to work from.
There was some time for socialising, Dan on “My Dream” was here and Thom on “Fathom” and John & Oceana on “Danika” turned up a few days later.
Mainstreet Neiafu
Neiafu is a small place and doesn’t take much exploring but there is a good market for fruit and vegetables and the place comes alive on Saturdays when people gather and hang about in the streets.
Veg market
the market
In between other jobs I took a walk over to the boatyard on the other side of the island for a look see and also went up Mt Talau. Well its stretching it a bit to call it a mountain, at 310 m hardly a lofty eminence but it is the highest point in Vava’u and is a fine viewpoint to look out over the many islands and inlets that comprise the Vava’u group.
View from Mt Talau
In French Polynesia it was chickens and roosters that were everywhere, here in Tonga it is pigs that roam about.
Apart from the odd day the weather had not been great, grey skies and lots of rain but when it improved it was time to head out to enjoy some of the other anchorages that are here. First stop was to anchor of the tiny island of Nuku, memorable for its fine white sandy spit at one end.
Nuku
On then to Vakaeitau Island, winding a way between small islands and reefs to cross the reef guarding the delightful bay where I anchored. Anchored her were Ken & Tracy who I had last seen in Portobello Panama, good to catch up over a bottle of wine in the cockpit.
Vakaeitu Island
There is just one family lives on the island, like all Togan island heavily wooded. They held a Tongan feast for the cruisers anchored here, roast pig, chicken curry, raw fish marinated in coconut milk and a melange of different vegetable dishes. Two of the little girls dressed in the traditional bark cloth costumes did some Tongan dancing and there was a big fire burning under a huge banyan tree.
feast on the beach
After some days I was out of bread, booze and fresh veg so I headed back to Neiafu to restock.
I had a pleasant sail back the long way around as it were passing first north of Lape island and then south of Langito’o island, out towards Foeta island up past Luakmoko island past Kitu island and so back to Neiafu. Jan & Richard of “Morpheus” were here now so I joined them for happy hour at the bar.
Restocked with provisions, next day I dug out the bike and cycled down and across the causeway to Pangiamoto island and followed the roads first to Hikakalea Beach then back tracking across to Utangake island until the road ran out overlooking Mala island. Although the islands are fairly low lying there were enough hills to make it hard work at times.