Eventually the winds eased so more favourable for making the passage eastwards. Weighing the anchor I passed out of the bay and took good care to keep clear of the unmarked Lavandra Reef. A long tack north out to sea then I could tack east. I think 15 knots is my favourite sailing breeze, light enough to set all plain sail, not too strong to kick up much of a sea but strong enough to make reasonable progress.
By early afternoon I was in the vicinity of Green Turtle bay so I put in here and anchored awhile. It was as I expected too rolly to stay but I could prepare a meal before weighing anchor early eve and set off for a night passage.
Another long tack northwards away from the coast before tacking east again. The trick I find is to be far enough offshore not to worry about inshore shoals and danger but not too far so you are playing with the big boys, the tankers and container ships. Dawn saw me within sight of Punta San Blas. I had planned on anchoring at Chichame Cays but on approach it looked a bit crowded so carried on. However aiming for the Eden Channel I got a bit of a scare when I got the islands confused, went off line and strayed over a shoal patch. Maybe I was to tired and dim witted after the night passage with no sleep . I headed back to Chichame, entered the lagoon it was busy but enough room and anchored, time for some rest.
Beautiful though it was here, sandy palm treed islands, it was a bit like westerners doing their being on holiday thing. So next day I went in search of the real Guna Yala. I anchored off the island of Acuadup. Ashore was a traditional Guna village, palm leaf thatched huts, Guna indians in native dress, lots of dugout canoes. I bought some bread.
Moving on next day I passed through the well populated and busy Carti islands. I was put off anchoring here as you anchor in 17 m and have you ever tried pulling up min 3×17 m of 8mm chain and an anchor by hand? ( total wt about 85 kilos in case your wondering) Well I didn’t fancy it one bit.
one of Carti Islands
I went to Soledad Mira another traditional village and anchored. Unfortunately the holding here was not good, anchored on a small sloping boulder shelf, so left after a while and went to Los Grullos, anchoring off Kuandiup, just another sandy palm tree island. There was a Guna restaurant here so treated myself to a fish dinner.
Kuanidup
On to Mokame, a populated traditional island. Here I spent some time talking with a Guna guide who told me of some of their traditions, beliefs, and of the shaman and showed me around the village, the meeting hut or congresso, his hut and his Nuchus, small carved wooden statutes a link between the physical and spiritual side.
They live on the islands because they are free from insects and other things in the jungle on the main land but the tend gardens in the jungle for their produce paddling over there in their dugout canoes.
lobster man
Lobster for dinner bought from a free diver.
On then to Salardup an island in the Naguarandup Cays, a group of mostly uninhabited islands scattered along a 6 mile long barrier reef, further offshore than the inhabited islands. Salardup is in a lagoon approached through a gap in the surrounding reef. None of the reefs in the San Blas are marked, mark one eyeball navigation is required spotting the colour of the water to show you the depth.
I completed a circumnavigation of sorts of the Naguarandup Cays, sailing down the inland channel then out past Kanlildup or Green Island towards the Coca Bandera Cays then back westwards to the Lemmon Cays to anchor between three islands with a very shallow approach. A long days sailing through beautiful islands, so many islands.
I left Lemmon Cays soon after first light, as soon as the light was good enough to see the reefs. Out past the reefs and breaking surf I could set a course to clear the reefs of Porvener. A close reach this wind about 20 knots and a reasonably lively sea. I chose to get enough northing in to clear all offshore dangers meaning I could run down my westing free in that knowledge, rather like the old time clippers used to do. Once out at 9 degrees 38 minutes I turned westwards, putting Sea Bear on a beam reach and she fairly romped along. Much later the average speed on the log was showing 6.1 knots, good going indeed for us.
Rounding Isla Tamba and Isla Grande we were in good time and so instead of going in to Isla Linton to anchor I carried on to Portobello. The wind had eased a little over the last hour but rounding Drake Island and within sight of the anchorage with the log showing 60 miles covered in 10 hours, it died completely. No problem I thought I’ll just motor the last mile to anchor, but problem there was. The engine did not start, it would not even turn over but was locked solid. An initial assessment showed me that it wasn’t something I could fix right then. With wind I could have sailed in but there was none. I called up some cruisers in the bay over the vhf and explained my position so they said they would come out in their dinghies and assist. Before they arrived though a little breeze came back so I sailed towards the anchorage, the dinghies dully arrived and shepherded me to anchor. I was grateful for their support.
Safely at anchor it was out with the tools, out with the injectors, off with the exhaust elbow and drain all the seawater out of the engine and crank by hand to blow the remains out. Put it all back together and mercifully the engine started and ran. I warmed it up to drive out any moisture lingering. Finished well after dark and then I could make a cuppa and cook dinner. Puzzling over why this had happened I investigated further and discover the air inlet pipe to the anti-syphon valve was blocked, allowing sea water to syphon in to the exhaust manifold and thence the engine, Easily solved that but worse was that the exhaust elbow was corroded inside – only cure for that a new one.
Spent a couple of day at Portobello then headed off to Shelter Bay, turned out to be a very windy day and approaching the breakwater rain squalls too. Dodging both and outgoing and ingoing big ships I entered the breakwater and so to moor alongside in Shelter Bay marina. Time to try and get a new exhaust elbow and start with the canal paperwork.
A few days before my own scheduled transit I went through the canal as a line handler on Philip’s boat Wandering Star, a 45’ Irwin ketch. The other line handlers were an English couple from Morpheus, my neighbours on the pontoon and a young Panamanian Carlos. Late afternoon and we picked up the transit advisor at the Flats anchorage and motored to the Gatun locks. Before entering we rafted up with a catamaran in the centre us to starboard and a big pilot house ketch to port. The Panamain canal line handlers ashore threw us hauling lines weighted with monkeys fists, we attached the mooring warps to them, we were walked into the lock and once in place the linehandlers ashore dropped the loops over bollards and the linehandlers on the boats took up the slack. Lock doors closed and water flooded in, the turbulence was considerable, there was a lot of strain on the lines and taking in the lines as the raft rose was hard. There are 3 Gatun locks and we passed from one to the other with the linehandlers ashore casting us off and walking us through to the next lock. Going through at the same time was a big freighter in front of us, they have only a few feet clearance either side so move very slowly, guided by the mules( electric trains) to which they are tied so it all took some time. By the time we were through the 3rd lock and could de-raft it had already been dark for some time and we motored to anchor near the designated mooring bouy to spend the night in Gatun Lake. Our transit advisor left us and we could settle down to eat and drink a few beers. Resuming the transit the next morning with a new advisor, we motored across the lake then through the cuts past Gamboa and through the Gaillard cut, past Gold hill, under the Centenario bridge and so to the San Pedro lock where the descent to the Pacific begins. Rafting up again we entered the lock , this time in front of a freighter. Down-locking is much more gentle with no turbulence. On through the Minaflores lake to the 2 Minaflores locks and then finally to the Pacific. Just a few more miles and under the Bridge of the Americas and there is Balboa Yacht Club with its moorings. The club boatman ran us ashore and we said our farewells to Philip and taxied back to Shelter Bay. It was a worthwhile experience and had prepared me for my own transit. For my transit I enlisted the English crew of Tintin, recently arrived and scheduled to transit a few days later. Motoring out of the marina Sea Bear felt heavy and sluggish with 5 aboard. At the flats waiting for the advisor I talked through the procedure with the crew and when the advisor arrived we set off for the locks.
Approaching Gatun locks
Entering Gatun Locks
In Gatun locks
Sea Bear was rafted alongside 2 big yachts and the advisors said the 2 big yachts would do all the line handling and manoeuvring. We were just grateful passengers and so had an easy time of it. Passing through the Gatun locks was quicker this time so we were moored up to the big buoy before dark. Dinner was cooked and eaten and some beers drunk. Now Sea Bear has only 3 bunks so I slept in the cockpit and another elected to sleep on the foredeck It was a fine night.
Mooring buoy Gatun Lake
Sunrise Gatun Lake
The advisor had warned that they would be early next morning and indeed Larry, our new advisor turned up at 6.45 and we were off. Tea was already brewed so I let one of the crew helm whilst I cooked breakfast for all.
Panamax on Gatun Lake
When doing your transit application you must specify your cruising speed, I had specified 5 knots, this is the minimum speed allowed. I was little concerned at being able to maintain this especially so heavily laden as we were but we averaged 5.7 for the next 5 hours that we took to motor the 28.6 mies across the lake and to the San Pedro lock, where we arrived at 11.45. The lake is quite beautiful with lots of tree covered islands, on the biggest of which is the Smithsonian Tropical research station. We did this time see a crocodile basking in the shallow of one island.
Gaillard cut, Gold hill & Bridge Centanario
Down-locking this time was quite quick, no big freighter to wait for, rafted together again with Arielle, and a French Onvi, we locked through with a big sail training ship and a passenger ferry.
San Pedro Lock
Exiting the San Pedro lock we spotted another crocodile. Shortly after 2pm our advisor was picked up and we moored to a mooring buoy at Balboa Yacht club. It had been and easy and stress free transit.
Bridge of the Americas
I went ashore in the club boat with my crew and dropped of the tyre fenders (3$ each to hire 1$ each to drop off). The crew of Arielle were at the yacht club and we drank some beer before they went off in the taxi that we had pre-arranged back to Shelter Bay. Connected up to wifi I discovered that John Whittle, an old friend and work associate from my time as a climbing guide had suddenly died. So no joy at being through to the Pacific. The day ended on a sombre note and I drank the last of my beer in remembrance of him.
I spent a few days at the Balboa Yacht Club moorings, I had been led to believe that they were very rolly with wakes from big ships but I found this not to be the case at all.
Balboa yacht club moorings
Making final preparations for the Pacific I spent some time visiting several chandlers but I couldn’t get all the bits I wanted which I found a bit surprising in such a big place. I did in the course of my wandering use the Metro subway, very fast and efficient in addition to taxis and the metro bus.
Las Brisas and Panama City
I did get a chart for Tonga which I was missing and a new Nautical almanac from Islamoradora the excellent chart agents in Balboa.
Balboa monument
I went to the open air vegetable market at Abastos which was huge and bought lots of good quality unrefridgerated fruit and vegetables which keep much better than cold stored supermarket ones for the journey. Another purchase was a new windup kitchen timer – just the thing to time your catnaps at sea, though I wont be able to doze with it on my chest as used to be my wont with my old one as it it egg shaped and so would roll off. International zarpe got from the Port captain at Flamenco and Immigration visited, I went to get diesel topped up and whilst moored up some clot in a work boat who was moored astern decided for unknown reason to reverse into me. There was a horrible noise and the wind vane paddle was horribly bent. I was fuming as you might imagine. The design of the monitor is such that there is a sacrifical tube between paddle and gear mechanism and it was this that was bent. I do carry a spare but I wasn’t about to tell the other boat that. A yacht club offIcial on the fuel dock was helpful taking all the details . I took off the paddle and stripped out the tube giving it to the guy on the dock who said he would insist it was fixed today as he knew I was leaving. I went back to the mooring to wait. They came by later but it was still not quite straight so he went away again. They came back later with a new one which was a better result and I have also got the old one which is not quite straight but will do as another spare at a pinch. Have just finished putting it back on which involved some slightly dodgy sitting on the back framework. All ready now think I need a beer after all it will be last one for a while. First stop is planned for Las Perlas islands about 40 miles away then it will out into the Pacific proper for the long haul.
Left Balboa moorings at first light and after motoring out of the channel set a course for the Las Perlas, a cluster of over 20 mainly uninhabited islands about 40 miles away. Little wind so mainly motoring until later on when I picked up a southerly breeze. I eventually anchored off the NW coast of La Contadora, the busiest of the islands, a weekend retreat for rich Panamanians. Next day I moved on to a lovely anchorage in the channel between Isla Espiritu Santo and the main island of Isla Del Rey. Supposedly a popular anchorage but I had it all myself, it was very peaceful, lots of pelicans and parrots.
Espiritu Santo
Now I could start the task of diving under and ensuring the hull was clean before passage and that afternoon I got 1 side done but I find it tiring work. Wanting to finish the job off next morning but the tide was running swiftly past the boat and I decided it wouldn’t be wise. Yes welcome back to tides, something you almost forget about in the Caribbean, here the range is about 15 ft. I therefore moved on, motoring down the east side of the islands to almost the southern end. Here I anchored at Rio Cacique which the pilot assured me you were almost certain to find flat water. So it was I and I finished off the hull cleaning.
A quick dive next morning as a final check then it was time to leave, this morning at least there was some wind and from the North so I set off for the long passage bound for the Galapagos. Probably like many other cruisers I had some regrets at not having more time to spend exploring in these delightful islands but the Pacific beckoned.
I did have a calm patch passing between wide gap between Isla Galera and Punta Gorda but then the wind was back. A notable sight was the sting rays jumping vertically from the water, turning end over end and landing with an almighty splash.
So the day passed and the first night, lots of big ships bound to and from Panama but all a good distance off. I was off to a flying start because in the first 24 hours Sea Bear had run 130 miles. However it was not too last and the winds grew lighter and lighter with some periods of calm. I don’t think I saw winds over 8 knots again. So the days passed, once clear of the shipping channel there were no ships and little to do apart from ring the changes with the sails, pole out the yankee opposite to the main, lets try the cruising chute, the occasional gybe to keep on course as far as possible, a little tweak to the self steering now and again. On the 8th day I was a little surprised to see a fishing vessel must be 200 miles at least from the nearest land.
After sunset of the 9th day and a big bird made a determined effort to land atop the mast, succeeding after several attempts. I guessed it must be a land bird as a sea bird would just settle on the water, but I wasn’t able to identify it, it perched there all night leaving with first light in the morning.
sunrise coast of San Cristobal
My patience with these calms and light winds was wearing thin so nightfall of day 10 when it fell calm and there was about 50 miles to Isla Cristobal I resorted at last to the engine. It didn’t help that the auto pilot had packed up so hand steering it was. The wind did return for a while but not for long and when it died again I let let drift and took a 30 minute nap before turning on the engine again. It had been a lovely full bright moon night but eventually it sunk below a thick band of clouds so it was really dark, now I know there is an island somewhere hereabouts. First light and all was revealed and I was shortly entering Wreck Bay there to anchor. It had been 10 days short 1 hour for the 838 mile passage.
I was a little surprised how green was the island after all I had read. Plenty of trees and vegetation, but then I suppose it was the rainy season. First thing after anchoring was a dive over the side to check the bottom of Sea Bear, it had accumulated a crop of goose barnacles so those were scrapped off. A big boxy fish (puffer fish) came along to help, tugging them off and eating them. Formalities took some time to complete, it all has to be done through an agent . At one time there were 6 official aboard plus a diver inspecting the hull. It was all very friendly though and no problems although expensive, I just had to be fumigated in the morning. For that I had to be off the ship for 3 hours so I explored the town, watched the sea lions, swam at the beach and found a nice restaraunt for a 4$ fish meal.
Wreck Bay
Subsequent days saw me walk to the beach and Lobelia for my first sight of marine iguanas, more sea lions of course, this place is ruled by sea lions. Birds including the famed finches, a lava heron, white checked pintails, oystercatcher, a plover and of course plenty of pelicans and frigate birds. Another day I took the bus (they only run on a Sunday) across the island passing through the farming area of El Progresso to La Galapaguera, a breeding project for giant tortoises a walk around here and then on to Puerto Chino, the end of the road and a walk to another lovely beach. No sign of a bus back so after a long wait I rode back in the back of a pickup truck which is what all the taxis here are. Boat maintainance carries on, this time it is major re-stitch of the seams of the spray hood where the stitching has either frayed through or rotted by sunlight and sea air. Its hard awkward work. There is only the one road so some days later I rode my bike up past the highest point, Cerro San Joaquin (896m) to El Junco where I walked up to see the crater lake. That was some hard ride but much easier freewheeling back downhill. I got soaked in a downpour but you don’t get cold here near the equator so it barely matters. Leaving Sea Bear at anchor I took a launcha (fast motorboat with 3 big outboard engines that do the 40 nm trip in about 2 hours) over to Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz to meet up with my son Ged who flown into the Galapagos. We visited the Darwin centre and walked to Turtle bay then managed to arrange a few days on a tourist boat. This was very good indeed, food superb and the wildlife guide very knowledgable and informative. We visited giant tortoises in the highlands of Santa Cruz then the boat took us overnight to island of Espanola where we walked ashore on Gardner bay for sea lions and marine iguanas, snorkeled in the bay seeing turtles. On then to Punta Suarez for a walk across the peninsular though marine iguana breeding sites and masked booby colonies.
Marine Iguana
Gardner Bay Española
Land Iguana Santa Fe
Even though it was a little early in the season we were lucky to see one waved Albatross.
Waved Albatross
One of the features of the Galapagos is the fearless nature of all the wildlife meaning that you can approach really close which is very special. Here we also saw the Galapagos hawk. Next was island of Santa Fe for the cactus trees and land iguanas found only on this island. Then to South Plaza, a different type of landscape, a different type of iguanas plus nesting on the cliffs, swallow tail gulls, blue footed boobies and Audubon’s shearwaters. Throughout there were frigate birds , tropic birds, finches, mockingbirds and Galapagos doves. Tour finished we bussed over Santa Cruz to Puerto Ayora and Ged and I returned by launcha to San Cristobal to rejoin Sea Bear. We had a fabulous snorkel in a rocky cove underneath Cerro Tijeretas with big schools of fish, many brightly coloured big fish and with sea lions swimming really close to you.
Sea Lions
But my time in the Galapagos is up, it has been fabulous, but now its time to arrange my zarpe, clear immigration, stock up with water, veg, fruit and bread and head on out for the Marquesas. They are about 3,000 mile away so 30 days or more.
