SEA BEAR

“When you land on Graciosa you take off your shoes and forget the world”

After anchoring and after lunch it was time to inflate the dinghy and row ashore, landing on a small beach. A short walk along a beach backed by volcanic rocks and desert shrubland took us into the small village of whitewashed single story houses where the streets were just sand and had a coffee at a little harbour front cafe. We later walked to Playa Francesa, another beautiful bay and anchorage.
Next morning we dinghied into the harbour and spoke with Pedro the “diretor do porto” who said yes the marina was full but after more talk ah well you can berth either there or there or there! So we moved Sea Bear into the harbour alongside a pontoon, this time we were on the security official’s list. This was better as we had discovered yesterday that the beach where we had landed yesterday was tricky to leave, being fringed with reefs and I had to launch the dinghy in a shallow lagoon then row out through a small gap, thankful that the waves were not bigger.
There are no paved roads on the island, just dirt tracks. Some mountain bikes were hired and a circuit of the northern part of the island undertaken. A visit to the beautiful Playa de Las Conchos, a walk up Montana Bermeja, the village of Pedro Barber visited and a swim in the bay there. One eve we dined ashore on Octopus, sardines and mushrooms with a bottle of wine from Lanzarotte – delicious.
Days passed, the island is touched by tourism but only very lightly, it is so laid back, such a relaxing place, a visit there is highly recommend by me.

Eventually we left Graciosa and with a Northerly wind of 10 to 13 knots had an uneventful sail around the top of Lanzarote and down the eastern coast. Arriving at Arrecife, the islands capital we entered into Puerto de Naos and there found, instead of the 2 pontoons mentioned in the pilot, a brand new marina. We discovered that it had only opened on 18th Oct. Lots of boats here including many from the Atlantic Odysey, a new cruise in company started by Jimmy Cornell.

Arrecife was a bit of a contrast to Graciosa, but with good connections a good place for crew to come and go and a good base to explore the island from. One day we took a bus to Yaiza, a delightful village, and walked and hitched to El Golfo, where there is a striking green lagoon and then along the coast past amazing lava flows. We ended the day with a swim on the beach at Playa Blanca, a place full of lobster coloured English – didn’t stay long.
It was then time for Merel to leave, she was flying back to Spain. Sad to see her go as she was great company and we had a good time together. She left me with a bottle of Rum as a leaving present, “Cuz real sailors (pirates) don’t sail without Rum! Arggh”

However I wasn’t alone for long as Wendy, my best friend from Sheffield, arrived on a plane a few days later. 15 minutes off the plane and we were swimming in the sea at Playa Honda, fabulous. The next week was spent exploring the island, swimming most days and taking in a few tourist sites. The house of the artist Cesar Manrique, who had such an influence on the island, the Mirador del Rio, a wonderful viewpoint, Cuevo de Verdes, the lava tube caves and Timanfaya, the fire mountain or Mount Doom as it became where you could feel the heat of the volcano and peer down a fumarole to its depths. Sardines, octopus, prawns were eaten along with various tapas too and the very good Lanzarote wine drunk. But in case you are thinking it was all just good times, work was done too, eye splicing to make up some new halyards for Sea Bear.

Its almost time to move on but a spell of bad weather has arrived, strong winds from the SW and yes it rained today. Will wait till things improve.

Eventually got away from Arrecife. Had a number of days of strong winds and rain, at times torrential. It even flooded some of the towns streets.
Leaving the pontoon was tricky with a tail and cross wind, but managed OK. Outside the harbour set a course for Fuerteventura, downwind sail ing was this so just the yankee and the staysail set and din’t bother with the main. I also reckoned it would be easier as I was passing through one of the noted wind acceleration zones where the winds are reported to go from 15 to 30 knots in an instant. It was a cloudy day but passed without event. Thought I might put into Puerto del Castillo for the night but off here the sun was about to set, a night approach not recommended so I carried on. There were very few lights ashore on the next stretch of coast, Fuerteventura is indeed a wild and rugged looking island. I rounded the Light on Punta de la Enstallada and it was then only 6 miles to Gran Tarajal. Here I anchored in the bay to the east of the breakwater. 55 n miles run, quite pleased with my progress.

After weighing anchor our course was along the south coast of Fuerteventura, with northerly winds, a nice beam reach and in the lee of the island flatter seas, a real pleasure. Several boats had emerged from the harbour of Gran Tarajal, most were much bigger so drew away but Sea Bear under full sail did overtake one boat with reefs tucked in. Later I put a reef in the main myself as the wind was picking up. A red letter day, saw my first flying fish, I was amazed at how far it “flew”.
We passed the lighthouse on Punta de Mattoral O de Morro Jable and Morro Jable itself. Along this Costa Calme the wind was very variable, calm one moment and 25 knots the next, it kept you on your toes. I anchored at Puertito, a tiny bay and settlement tucked in close by the Punta Jandia, the very bottom tip of Fuerteventura.