by chris ayres | Jan 2015 | UK to New Zealand
After anchoring at Le Marin, I think it took a while for it to really sink in that we were here in the Caribbean. Firsts things first, after a cup of tea, of course, sail covers on , take off the staysail, tidy up all the ropes, dig out and rig the sun awning. Then it was inflate the dinghy and time to go ashore. We found the dinghy dock and the customs office, but that was closed then wandered along the beach road to the beach where we found a welcoming bar, fresh fruit drinks went down well than to celebrate a t-punch. It was wonderful just to sit there and let it all wash over you, the people the sights the sounds the smells after so long at sea and let it gradually sink in.
Later on we found the supermarket that was open, wine and baggettes and cheese were bought for a picnic on the beach and I found the shower block in the new marina, spirited my way in when someone came out and despite not having a towel or soap had a delightful shower to wash off all the salty spray.
Later that eve there was some bands playing on a stage set up near the beach, good music too.
I ended up staying at La Marin a few days, it was nice just to rest up to be on the boat that was secure at anchor and not moving around all the time. I took the staysail to the sail loft as the topmost eyelet for the piston hank had corroded away and there was a little bit of chafe on the leech despite looking out for potential chafe points ever day, but on a black night they can be hard to spot.
The crew departed, Bertrand wanted to remain in Martinique and I felt the need to reclaim some personal space, it had been a long time coped up together in a small boat.
Olly on “Solage” arrived via Barbados, his first comment to me was its a long way isn’t it.
After getting back the staysail from the loft and reprovisioning, the nearest supermarket had a dinghy dock – very civilised, I was ready to leave.
I had a very pleasant gentle sail past Diamond rock and round to the west coast where I anchored in the bay of Grand Anse. Oh what a lovely place this was, a beautiful bay with water so clear you could see the bottom at anchor in 5 meters. Starfish on the sand, fish swimming by, I even saw turtles, amazing.The tidal range here is only about 2 feet so no worries on that score. There was a golden sand beach, some palm trees all backed by lovely wooded hills and some of beach restaraunts and shacks. Oh the water was such a lovely temperature for swimming. Perhaps this was as close to paradise as I will get.
Next day I walked up and over to headland to the next bay, Petite Anse, saw a hummingbird, swam, walked back and at a lunch of grilled fish creole style. I would have stayed longer here but I have this date to get to Antigua for so I left the next afternoon for a short hop to Fort De France. Coming into the anchorage I found myself in the midst of Yole race so had my work cut out to keep out of all their way. They sure know how to party do Martiniques, a stage set up in the park by the beach and bands playing that eve, for free of course
I had intended to stay just the one night but the following day it was blowing pretty hard, plenty of white horses out in the bay so I stayed, took the opportunity to wander the streets a bit, swim from the beach. Next day I sailed to St Pierre, the town that was wiped out in 1902 by the Volcanoe Mt Pele. This is a suitable jumping off point for continuing North, next stop Dominica.
St Pierre
Retite Anse
Diamond Roack
Grande Anse
Beach at Grande Anse
by chris ayres | Feb 2015 | UK to New Zealand
Weds
Sitting in Sea Bear at anchor off Roseau, Dominica, she is rocking gently and there are sounds of reggae music drifting out to us across the water. I’ve just finished a G&T after dinner. We made a good passage from St Pierre, Martinique. I left with just the faintest glimmer of dawn light in the sky to make sure of getting to Dominica before dark, but we had a really fast passage. Mostly the wind between 15 & 17 knots on the beam, conditions Sea Bear seems to really like, all plain sail set until we took a reef in the main when some gusts pushed 20 knots. For the first time since leaving UK the log was showing an average speed of over 5 knots , in fact 5.5 at one point so we did the passage of 38 n miles in 8 hours, I was really pleased with that.
After anchoring I dinghied ashore and walked to customs to do the paperwork. Quite painless and quick and I liked the clearance document they gave me:
“Commonwealth of Dominica, port of Roseau. This is to certify to all whom it doth concern that Chris Ayres, Master and Commander of Sea Bear burden of 5.89 tons, GRP built and bound for Les Saintes, Guadeloupe having on board ships stores hath here entered and cleared his said vessel according to law.”
After clearance I wandered around town a bit, very different to Martinique, which is very French. This is very, well, Dominican and in a way kinda much more of what you suspect the Caribbean to be like if you have never been. Instead of French supermarkets and boulangeries and cafes, there are little grocery stores, all sorts of little shacks and shops, roads with big open gutters, pavements which well are broken and uneven and all different materials. Its more like life in the raw.
The island is more mountainous too with lusher vegetation, its all a riot of colour too, greens of the trees & vegetation and brightly painted houses and shacks. There were clouds over the mountains and rain showers and beautiful rainbows over the tropical forests.
The people are different too, there are more guys with dreadlocks for instance and it helps that English is the language.
Thurs
Decided would be a pity not to see some of the interior of Dominica so hailed Pancho as he went past this morning, he is one of the good “boat boys” and asked about organising a trip in. As it happened, two other couples, one French Canadian the other English were about to go and could do with another person to make up the numbers, so I hopped aboard Pancho’s boat and off we went. Anyway all aboard a minibus and off, lovely drive up into the mountains, first to a waterfall in the national park, in steep tropical forest in the mountains and we bathed in the pool under the falls, then another waterfall and pool, both a bit of walking through the forest which is quite incredible. A spot of lunch at a roadside eating spot , baked chicken drumsticks and fried plantain, then to a beach at Soufriere. Here volcanic gases bubble up through the sand and heat up the sand and the water, hence bubble beach. Ooh and I saw pelicans too for the first time in the wild.
Fri
Now at Portsmouth, Dominica, anchored in Prince Ruperts bay. I had hoped to see whales today as they are supposed to like this coast but no luck. Had read bad things about the Portsmouth boat boys but they were good, they have formed an organisation and seem a nice bunch of guys. Always very polite, friendly and helpful, very careful not to bang their boats into yours. I bought some of the sweetest juiciest grapefruits that I have ever had from Christian in his little rowing boat, very welcome after a hot sail up the coast.
Sat
Well I might have said that the Martiniques know how to party, can only say Dominicans do it more so.! Music drifting out over the bay all night till about 7 this morning, and carnival not started yet, starts Sunday apparently, guess they were just having a Friday night warm up!
Took a trip up the Indian river this morning, by rowing boat, only those allowed, no outboards etc, cos its a national park site. Thick with jungle type trees and coconut palms and lianas. Its where they filmed parts of Pirates of the Caribbean, when they went up the river into the jungle, was a good little trip. Shared a boat with the English couple and their two kids who I meet the other day and went to the waterfalls etc with.
In the evening the Portsmouth boat boys aka PAYS put on a beach barbecue for all the sailors, plenty of rum punch, chicken legs, grilled fish, rice and salad and of course loud reggae music.
Sun
Carnival starts, the small town of Portsmouth was packed with crowds lining the streets, music blaring out and beer and punch drinking and then came along the procession. The biggest loudest sound systems I have ever see or heard, dancing girls, beauty queens, stilt walkers and then a band . There was dancing in the street, people having fun, all rather wonderful.
I will leave in the morning to cross the Dominican channel bound for Les Saints and Guadeloupe.
Roseau
Waterfall
Emerald pool
Indian River
Carnival
Carnival
by chris ayres | Feb 2015 | UK to New Zealand
I had really enjoyed my stay in Dominica, only my deadline for being on Antigua stopped me from staying longer and doing more exploring of the interior.
There had been rain overnight, but it had cleared by early morning when I raised the anchor at Portsmouth and headed out towards the Dominican channel. There was a light breeze at first which strengthened to between 15 to 18 knots. Sea Bear romped along and just over 3 hours later we entered the Passage du Sud-Ouest and passed between the rocks of les Augustins and the island of Terre-de-Bas of Les Saintes. Here the wind was gusting to 25 knots so we were down to 2 reefs in the main and the staysail. Soon enough though we were picking up mooring bouy in Anse de Bourg on Terre-de-Haute. Fortunately another boater saw my firts attempt to pass a line through t he ring thawted by an untimely gust and hopped in his tender and helped me secure my line. Many thanks to that man.
Formalities ashore soon completed thanks to the computerised French system, you just fill in your details yourself, print out the form, sign it and get them to countersign it.
The town is very pretty but almost overrun by tourists who visit via the fast ferry from Guadeloupe.
Next morning I walked over to Baie de Pt Pierre for a swim, a beautiful sandy beach with coconut palm trees. It’s also one of the beaches that turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. No sign of them of course, they do it at night.
I crossed the next day to Guadeloupe itself. Coming past the top of Ilet a Cabrit I had to watch out for the fishermen setting some nets, Done with their fast “santoises” but they amaze me by swimming alongside the nets, something I also saw in Dominica. Bear in mind too this is open water with sizeable waves a mile or so offshore.
With a lovely fresh beam wind I saw the log record a speed of 7.6 knots at one point, very good going for little old Sea Bear. Past the lighthouse on Pte du Vieux Fort, the wind fell light and the seas flatter until eventually faced with a flat calm I resorted to some motoring, then sailing then motoring. Eventually we dropped the hook in Anse de la Barque, a nice little cove with a palm fringed beach but apart from the road passing by nothing else. I took a swim around the boat, bold for me this swimming when I am out of my depth.
Carrying on up the coast next day we passed Bouillante, with it plumes of steam and then Pigeon island, which is Reserve Cousteau, a marine reserve. Arrived at Anse Deshaies and anchored.
A nice little place this, a dinghy dock, some beach front restaurants a few shops, oh and home of Madame Sorbet who sells delicious homemade ice cream from the back of her van in the afternoons. Saw more turtles swimming in the bay here.
Baie de Pte Peirre
Baie de Pte Peirre
Anse de la Barque
Deshaies
by chris ayres | Feb 2015 | UK to New Zealand
For whatever reason I didn’t sleep well, so since I was awake at 4 I thought I might as well leave. I had wanted an early start to make sure that I made the 40 + mile crossing and arrive by early afternoon, but didn’t mean this early, first light I thought. Anyway the moon was up and stars in the sky, so I stowed the dinghy, hoisted the main and left. There was a gentle breeze which gradually freshened as I made my way away from the coast. I wanted a bit of offing to avoid the headland to the north, the shallow patches and the offshore island of Kahouanne
Later I began to doubt my wisdom, the sky had clouded over and in the half light pre-dawn it looked rather ominous, thought I might get rain squalls but in the distance it looked clearer. In the end I missed all the rain, although I could see it falling on Guadeloupe behind me and gradually the clouds passed and it was another sunny day in paradise. I could get to like this trade wind sailing, a steady NE breeze between 12 & 15 knots so with the course desired the apparent wind was around 60 degrees, a close reach and with very little swell our speed was good.
Away on our port beam was Monserrat and with the aid of binoculars you could see the ash flows from the eruption of 20 years ago which had caused the evacuation of the island. Ahead were the hills of Antigua, at first looking like a group of separate islands but as we drew closer they merged into one coherent mass. Closer still and I could identify parts of the coast, that surely was Cape Shirley and to its left the Pillars of Hercules marking the entrance to English harbour. Off Snapper Point I handed the sails and motored in between Charlotte Point and Berkley Point to arrive at Freemans Bay, English Harbour. The anchorage was pretty crowded but I found a spot to drop the hook, made the obligatory cup of tea and then sat in the cockpit taking it all in. After all these months I had arrived at my destination, tired but very happy.
English Harbour
by chris ayres | Mar 2015 | UK to New Zealand
I have been here in Antigua for 5 weeks now, the last month in the delightful company of Wendy who flew out to join me. When I arrived first on the agenda was the need for a bimini. The sun shades I had were all very well for when at anchor but some shade whilst sailing was desirable and whilst waiting for Wendy to arrive seemed the ideal time to get it sorted. A visit to AF sails set the process in motion, a process that took some time and was not completed until after Wendy had arrived but eventually Sea Bear was fitted with a bimini and so shade whilst sailing, it made a lot of difference to comfort in the cockpit.
Plans to do a little Island hopping were shelved as we have been having unusually strong winds, days of constant 25 plus knots of wind and higher and at times a rough sea state. There has been plenty to do nonetheless, some delightful anchorages and bays to visit,mainly on the west side of the island, Carlisle bay , Hermitage Bay, Five Islands, Deepbay, Dickenson’s Bay, Turners beach and Jolly Harbour but also in the North, navigating through the reefs to anchor off Jumby Bay, Great Bird Island, a beautiful deserted island, where we saw turtles, stringrays, lizards, hermit crabs, tropic birds, frigate birds and more. Beaches to swim from and walk along. Walks over Middle ground, to Shirley heights and up Fig Tree Drive. Reggae music drifting out at time across the water. A bus ride across the island to St Johns for the markets and lunch in the Palm Court Restaurant, sounds grand but in fact a small local eatery with Creole style food. Fish and lobster meals in beach side restaurants. It has all been pretty perfect really, the people are friendly and helpful, the sea a most amazing turquoise and such a perfect temperature for swimming, the sunsets wonderful.
Sea Bear At Anchor
Carlisle Bay
Coral fan Deep Bay
English Harbour
Approaching anchorage at Great Bird Island
Sleepy Parham
At Great Bird Island
Wendy helming
by chris ayres | Mar 2015 | UK to New Zealand
It was time time leave Antigua once Wendy had left to fly back to England. I got clearance from customs and immigration at Jolly Harbour and after settling marina fees I reversed Sea Bear out of the berth, always an interesting exercise in a long keeler and went and anchored outside the harbour ready for an early departure in the morning. The weather had reverted to norm now, wind about 15 knots rather than the 25’s we had been having and next day I had an uneventful passage to Monserrat where I anchored in Little Bay. Ashore I completed entrance formalities and realised I was a day late for the St Patricks day celebrations. many of the early settlers were Irish and the tradition is still strong and Guinness drank in the bars.
A swell was finding its way into the anchorage so the night was not peaceful but anyway next morning I went ashore determined to explore the island. I walked up to the ” main road” intending to take a bus but got offered a lift by someone who had seen me land and on the way he told me something of the island and the changes caused by the volcanic eruptions. He wasn’t going all the way to Salem but stopped another car who he reckoned was going there and they gave me a lift the rest of the way, good kind, friendly people on this island.
At Salem I walked up to the volcano observatory an interesting little walk in its own right arriving at a fine viewpoint of the volcano and the ruins of Plymouth in the distance. I walked some way back towards Little Bay, but at a fork in the road, no signposts of course I sat and waited for the bus. They are a good way to see something of the island. It is mountainous and very forested with plenty of wildlife only a bit of a nag about the safety of the boat made me return to Little Bay, There, seeing the boat OK I had a lunch of fried fish at a beach front bar a beer and an interesting chat with some locals.
Monserrat from Little Bay
Beach Bar Little Bay
view towards ruins of Plymouth
Forest & Volcano
Little Bay Monserrat
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