SEA BEAR

In the end I stayed at anchor at Bueu for 3 nights. There were 3 other boats here, an interesting contrast in style. A big old wooden Norwegian Gaffer, a Halberg Rassy 50 all mod cons and power hungry, they were running the engine to power the machine washing, and  Wyloe , these seem the boat of choice by a number of livaboards. Next day I inflated the dinghy  rowed ashore and swam from the beach, it was lovely. Next day was a rainy morning and although it cleared by early afternoon I thought I’d stayed another day, whats the rush when you are in such beautiful places. It was a lovely bay backed by wooded hills scattered with houses climbing the hillsides, there were a number of beautiful beaches and behind the rest of the ria, always with these beautiful wooded hills. But then it was time to move on  so I weighed anchor and set out for the Illas Cies.

There has been a low sort of stuck of the coast of Portugal for the last fortnight or so which has been giving us either no wind or persistent southerlies. Not so good when you are trying to go South. So after reaching out from the ria it was another beating to windward session again. It all started out so well but then where does this wind suddenly spring from, one minute  a lovely 15 to 17 knots then its 20, 25, hold on a minute 30 plus- more sail shortening practise. I had wanted to anchor of the islands but it was far too windy and the sea too rough so decided to press on to Baiona, a shame for the islands, rocky and rugged look truly beautiful. Into the Enseadia de Baiona after rounding the Ilas Serralleiras and you wonder what the fuss was all about, a gentle breeze and flat sea. You feel a bit silly with 3 reefs still in the main. So I anchored in the bay along with a dozen or more yachts, obviously a popular spot.

Leixoes is the industrial port of Porto. I took a bus ride into Porto today for a look around the old part of the city. It was certainly worthwhile, lots of interesting buildings, old cobbled streets, steep hills, the quayside and of course all the wineries or should that be potteries, for which it is famous.

I have added a couple of photo albums, one for Baiona and another for Porto so if you want to see the pics click on the photo gallery link.

Arrived here via a series of day sails.

24th Sept – Leixos to Aveiro

Out to sea and there was a surprisingly large swell, considering how calm the weather. The morning started with gentle SE winds then later there is a calm and in the afternoon the wind returns from the NW gradually getting stronger as the afternoon progressed. I rigged the big red and white cruising chute and when the wind was about 8 knots it was pulling like the proverbial steam train. Later as the wind increased to about 13 knots I decided enough of such nonsense, this would seem like about the upper limit for this huge sail so I handed it, Thanks to it’s snuffer a relatively easy task.

The coast here is just an endless line of sand-dunes and beaches on which, even 2- 3 mile out you can hear the surf roar. Navigation is straightforward, you just get far enough off shore to find the 20 m depth contour and then turn south.

The intention was to enter Ria Averio but the pilot gives dire warnings of the effects of swell so I was a little uncertain whether to attempt an entry but I closed with it to have a look. Some big ships were coming out  and some smaller fishing boats too and then I saw a yacht about to enter so I followed at a discreet distance and it turned out there was no problem. I motored up the river and anchored of the little town of St Jacino. The area is one of lagoons, sand dunes and salt marsh but is very developed industrially.

25th Sept – Aveiro to Figuera da Foz

In the  mooring I headed out through the harbour moles. There was a bad swell breaking to the S so I headed W to clear it, an outgoing small fishing boat also pointed me out the way. Once again out to the 20 m depth contour and turn south for more endless mile of sand dunes and beaches. Early afternoon saw the NW breeze kick in again so out with the cruising chute. Not far behind me was Jean Michelle and his Wharram cat who I had meet earlier in Spain. They had been catching me until I hoisted the chute but now we could just stay ahead. Past Cabo de Monego I handed the chute and gybed towards the port of Figuera da Fox which I entered and found a berth in the marina for the night.

26th Sept – Figuera da Foz to Nazare

Yesterday the  log had not worked all day so after taking out the paddle wheel and cleaning it I hoped it would be back in business. More of the same sort of coast until the early afternoon when we passed the lighthouse of Penedo da Saudade. Here the coast was a little higher and more rocky in nature. On the whole though it is not an inspiring coast to cruise along.

This afternoon the wind failed so  we motored to round Pontal da Nazare and entered the harbour of Nazare where I berthed in the marina.

27th Sept – Nazare to Peniche

The marina staff had told me today would be bad weather in the sense of rain,so I was a little undecided whether to stay or press on. I walked into town in the morning which it seems has developed into quite a tourist town but there were still signs of the old way of life with racks of brine soaked fish put out to dry in the sun on the beach. Back at the boat the weather didn’t look bad so I left.

About and hour later I wished I hadn’t. The sky was black, riven by lightning flashes and there was a torrential rain. From what I could see though it would pass and indeed the worst was over fairly soon and although still overcast the rain was just light. Whilst all this is going on I just sheltered under the spray hood keeping a watch and the boat steers herself, I didn’t even get wet.

Later visibility improved and I could see the Os Farihoes, a group of islands of the coast. I was aiming to pass between the mainland, Cabo Carvoeiro and the island of Berlenga.

The weather further improved and I rounded Cabo Carvoeiro in bright sunlight and from there it was just a little way to the port of Peniche. I was moored by 4pm so a nice short day, just a  pity that the marina office was closed so no key for the gate. I could have got out of course but not back in. Still I borrowed a card and key from a couple on an English boat which I had seen anchored at Baiona so could have a shower.

I had a  day in Peniche. I had found on deck a washer and a nut, now where on earth did they come from? A check around revealed nothing but ah did the radar reflector mounted up the mast look a little wobbly? So it was up the mast armed with spanners and a new nut and bolt and that was soon fixed. Later sitting outside a bar using their wifi I noticed across the street a restaurant that seemed very popular they were queuing outside. I thought that it must be good so a bit later when the crowds thinned  I treated myself to a lavish lunch of grilled swordfish with prawns for starters. Yes it was good.

There was a 16th century  citadel in Peniche that had been used more recently for a high security prison for opponents  of the dictatorship which was only overthrown in 1974. Now that is recent history to me, a dictatorship in Europe that short time ago. It makes you think. Insular buggers us British we don’t know much of European history really do we.

Leaving next morning I was a bit hemmed in on the pontoon with boats close astern and in front. The beamy bugger in front was moored bow in so his broad back end was sticking right out. Time to spring off. A rear spring line a fender on the stern quarter and motoring astern swung my bow out nicely to clear him.

The first 2 miles away from the harbour or so was a veritable minefield of pot bouys. Further down the coast I passed close to 2 anglers far out in a little rib. One proudly held up 2 huge fish that they had caught. The forecast had promised northerly breezes but I had only a light southerly headwind and the northerlies did not start until late in the afternoon.  At one time I had about 8 yacht sails in sight, all on passage south. We passed the impressive Cabo da Roca and shortly after low lying Cabo Raso. From here we headed into Cascais where we anchored for the night.

It blew quite hard in the night and the morning was windy too but I was in rush to get away as I was waiting to catch the tide up the Rio Tejo as I had decided to visit Lisbon. It was an interesting sail up the river passing many of the old fortifications. Passing under the suspension bridge I entered the Doca de Alcantara, an old commercial dock where now there is a marina. Plenty of berthing practise today, first at the waiting pontoon for the swing bridge, second on a long pontoon where I left Sea Bear to visit the marina office and thirdly to the berth they allocated me. That last was tight, but I got in OK without hitting anything.

I keep seeing boats that I have seen before, all on their passage south, its like nautical leapfrog. Here it was a bid German boat flying a huge ARC2014 flag, on the way to the Arc obviously, last seen in Camarinas. At Cascais it was Jean Michell again in his Wharrram, who I first met in the Ria Cedeira, the big French HR seen at anchor at Bueu and a German Al boat also seen in Camarinas.

A day walking around in the hot sun. I visited the maritime museum which was worthwhile. Hats off to those early Portugese navigators exploring in boats that were sometimes not that much bigger than some modern couples yachts. Lisbon is a fascinating city, huge and sprawling with loads of character summed up by old buildings, cobbled roads and pavements, and tiled buildings. If you liked cities it is the sort of place you could get stuck in. Found a non tourist area and had lunch at a cafe on the street a sort of mixed fish stew flavoured with fresh coriander and one of the custard tarts that Matt told me to look out for.

Passing out through the swing bridge into the Rio Tejo we took the first of the ebb down the river. There were some huge cruise ships moored on the outside of the dock disgorging passengers for their day in Lisbon. The river is really wide so with a gentle following wind I gybed down the river and out passed the light of Bugio built on a shoal at the river entrance. The entrance shoals to the south so you have to stand out quite a way to sea to clear it before turning south. Much later we rounded Cabo Espichel with on its south side some dramatic sea cliffs. One of which issued jets of spray from some undersea opening. Off Sesimbra was a Portugese four masted schooner anchored, a lovely sight. Passing into the harbour we anchored off the beach. I don’t think I have ever seen so many seagulls in one place before, oh maybe except at Bridlington.

Sesimbra has a reputation for its strong northerly breezes in late eve and night and today was no exception. First light saw us weighing the anchor and away. There were now two schooners anchored outside. From the look of it  they are Naval training vessels, The Portugese are obviously rightly proud of their seafaring tradition and their navy can find the money to run these fine ships. So why can’t Britain? Probabaly because our Govt choose to spend it on useless high tech weaponry and the Trident Nuclear submarines instead.

Our route today lay across the wide Canhao (Bay) de Setubal so we were out of sight of the coast mostly and there was not much to see apart from lots of dolphins. Still we had a good sail in the morning with a fine easterly breeze and Sea Bear could stretch her legs on a beam reach.

Cabo de Sines was reached and rounding it and the long breakwater we entered the harbour of Sines and moored up in the Marina. Another nice looking town climbing up the hillside and a nice beach.

5th Oct – Sines to Enseada de Sagres

The next leg was gonna be  a long one. It was 56 n miles from Sines to Cabo de Sao Vincente, a coast with no intermediate harbours and then another 5 or so to an anchorage. It would be touch and go whether I could do the whole thing in daylight, which at the moment is from 7.30 to 19.30. The forecast was for quite strong winds with a 2.7 m swell and Cabo de Sao Vincente has a reputation for roughish seas so I was in two minds whether to go . On the other hand I needed good winds to stand a chance of making it in daylight.

Out from the shelter of the harbour it was certainly a little rolly, but then you can’t have wind without waves. With 1 reef in the main a staysail and a partly furled yankee Sea Bear started to pick up her pace. The dolphins certainly seemed to revell in the conditions and  you could see them clearly in the waves appearing to surf them. I  watched them for ages from the foredeck whilst sweet Martha looked after the steering. Martha is the self steering gear.

The wind later picked up a little, we had 20 knots apparent wind and since we were running at about 5 to 6 knots the real wind was about 26 knots. Go Sea Bear go. There were lots of white horses and you could hear the roar as crests break behind you. Sometimes it is better not to look. Still she is such a good sea boat that we stayed dry, not so much as a splash in the cockpit all day. Late in the afternoon I could see  Cabo de Sao Vincente, we were making good time. Of course the last few miles always seem to take ages even though the GPS was recording Sea Bear as touching 7 knots at times. 18.30 saw us almost up with the Cape and Pta de Sabres was starting to open up beyond. It was a position were we could gybe towards Pta de Sagres. We were round Cabo de Sao Vincente in daylight and rounding Pta de Sagres dark was failing but there lay the anchorage.  It was a question of creeping carefully into the beach in the dark, there was a moon but also clouds. Finally I could let the anchor go in 9 m off the beach and once assured it was properly set I could relax.

6th Oct – Enseada de Sagres to Lagos

In the morning I could appreciate what a pretty little bay and beach it was. Here we are at the start of the Algarve. Sailing along the coast was spoilt a little by a nightmare of fishing nets. They were all highly visible and well buoyed and so simple to avoid but it meant keeping out by the 50nm depth contour and it was a bit far out. It looked such an interesting coast I would have like to have been able to sail closer in. Hey but the sea was flat, such a contrast to yesterday.

Turning Pointa de Piedade, a lovely stretch of cliffs with pinnacles coves and caves I arrived at Lagos and anchored off the beach.  It was mid afternoon but I awarded myself a short day on account of yesterday.

6th Oct – Enseada de Sagres to Lagos

In the morning I could appreciate what a pretty little bay and beach it was. Here we are at the start of the Algarve. Sailing along the coast was spoilt a little by a nightmare of fishing nets. They were all highly visible and well buoyed and so simple to avoid but it meant keeping out by the 50nm depth contour and it was a bit far out. It looked such an interesting coast I would have like to have been able to sail closer in.

Turning Pointa de Piedade, a lovely stretch of cliffs with pinnacles coves and caves I arrived at Lagos and anchored off the beach.  It was mid afternoon but I awarded myself a short day on account of yesterday.

7th Oct – Lagos to Albufiera

A gentle day, sailing slowly past the coast. There were some lovely stretches of cliffs with sea caves and by mid afternoon I wasted up  inside Albufiera marina.

Albufiera was the full blown complete tourist resort. The marina was surrounded by apartments and the old fishing village completed lost amongst tourist development. The beach was like something out of a holiday brochure, rows of sun loungers with thatched sunshades. The cafes boasted menu touriste and full english breakfast and rows of shops with holiday mementos. It was all rather ghastly.

In the afternoon I waked to a smaller beach or cove with crumbling cliffs and pinnacles. There were still the sun loungers etc but at one end was quieter so I went for a swim.

Later I walked backed along the cliff tops, a nice walk.

Rain and more rain the next day so I took the opportunity to tidy and clean up the boat.