SEA BEAR

I quite liked Villagarcia, an unpretentious working town. There were parks, a good beach from which I had my first swim in the sea for many year and the marina was cheap I could have stayed on for much longer but it was time to move on to the next ria. The day started with a gentle sail, beam reaching down the ria but turning southwest past the Illa de Arousa it was a beat. Past the Isla de Rua which just seems like a heap of gigantic granite boulders we had a mad half hour where I went from yankee, staysail and full main  down to 2 reefs in main and just a furled yankee in 3 stages with 25 knots of wind oh yes and heavy rain too. It kicked up quite a sea too. Soon the wind was back to normal and I was back to a full set of sails but the sloppy sea and now light winds made sailing difficult. I rounded the Peninusla de O Grove and headed fro the gap between the Illa de Ons and the mainland. Eventually it was just one tack too many and if I wanted to make the anchorage at Bueu before dark I accepted that I would have to motor so I finished the passage by motoring past Picamillo tower and into the Ria Pontevedra. Crossing the ria and passing through lines of vivaros I arrived at Bueu where I anchored off the beach in time to watch the sunset.

In the end I stayed at anchor at Bueu for 3 nights. There were 3 other boats here, an interesting contrast in style. A big old wooden Norwegian Gaffer, a Halberg Rassy 50 all mod cons and power hungry, they were running the engine to power the machine washing, and  Wyloe , these seem the boat of choice by a number of livaboards. Next day I inflated the dinghy  rowed ashore and swam from the beach, it was lovely. Next day was a rainy morning and although it cleared by early afternoon I thought I’d stayed another day, whats the rush when you are in such beautiful places. It was a lovely bay backed by wooded hills scattered with houses climbing the hillsides, there were a number of beautiful beaches and behind the rest of the ria, always with these beautiful wooded hills. But then it was time to move on  so I weighed anchor and set out for the Illas Cies.

There has been a low sort of stuck of the coast of Portugal for the last fortnight or so which has been giving us either no wind or persistent southerlies. Not so good when you are trying to go South. So after reaching out from the ria it was another beating to windward session again. It all started out so well but then where does this wind suddenly spring from, one minute  a lovely 15 to 17 knots then its 20, 25, hold on a minute 30 plus- more sail shortening practise. I had wanted to anchor of the islands but it was far too windy and the sea too rough so decided to press on to Baiona, a shame for the islands, rocky and rugged look truly beautiful. Into the Enseadia de Baiona after rounding the Ilas Serralleiras and you wonder what the fuss was all about, a gentle breeze and flat sea. You feel a bit silly with 3 reefs still in the main. So I anchored in the bay along with a dozen or more yachts, obviously a popular spot.

Leixoes is the industrial port of Porto. I took a bus ride into Porto today for a look around the old part of the city. It was certainly worthwhile, lots of interesting buildings, old cobbled streets, steep hills, the quayside and of course all the wineries or should that be potteries, for which it is famous.

I have added a couple of photo albums, one for Baiona and another for Porto so if you want to see the pics click on the photo gallery link.

Arrived here via a series of day sails.

24th Sept – Leixos to Aveiro

Out to sea and there was a surprisingly large swell, considering how calm the weather. The morning started with gentle SE winds then later there is a calm and in the afternoon the wind returns from the NW gradually getting stronger as the afternoon progressed. I rigged the big red and white cruising chute and when the wind was about 8 knots it was pulling like the proverbial steam train. Later as the wind increased to about 13 knots I decided enough of such nonsense, this would seem like about the upper limit for this huge sail so I handed it, Thanks to it’s snuffer a relatively easy task.

The coast here is just an endless line of sand-dunes and beaches on which, even 2- 3 mile out you can hear the surf roar. Navigation is straightforward, you just get far enough off shore to find the 20 m depth contour and then turn south.

The intention was to enter Ria Averio but the pilot gives dire warnings of the effects of swell so I was a little uncertain whether to attempt an entry but I closed with it to have a look. Some big ships were coming out  and some smaller fishing boats too and then I saw a yacht about to enter so I followed at a discreet distance and it turned out there was no problem. I motored up the river and anchored of the little town of St Jacino. The area is one of lagoons, sand dunes and salt marsh but is very developed industrially.

25th Sept – Aveiro to Figuera da Foz

In the  mooring I headed out through the harbour moles. There was a bad swell breaking to the S so I headed W to clear it, an outgoing small fishing boat also pointed me out the way. Once again out to the 20 m depth contour and turn south for more endless mile of sand dunes and beaches. Early afternoon saw the NW breeze kick in again so out with the cruising chute. Not far behind me was Jean Michelle and his Wharram cat who I had meet earlier in Spain. They had been catching me until I hoisted the chute but now we could just stay ahead. Past Cabo de Monego I handed the chute and gybed towards the port of Figuera da Fox which I entered and found a berth in the marina for the night.

26th Sept – Figuera da Foz to Nazare

Yesterday the  log had not worked all day so after taking out the paddle wheel and cleaning it I hoped it would be back in business. More of the same sort of coast until the early afternoon when we passed the lighthouse of Penedo da Saudade. Here the coast was a little higher and more rocky in nature. On the whole though it is not an inspiring coast to cruise along.

This afternoon the wind failed so  we motored to round Pontal da Nazare and entered the harbour of Nazare where I berthed in the marina.

27th Sept – Nazare to Peniche

The marina staff had told me today would be bad weather in the sense of rain,so I was a little undecided whether to stay or press on. I walked into town in the morning which it seems has developed into quite a tourist town but there were still signs of the old way of life with racks of brine soaked fish put out to dry in the sun on the beach. Back at the boat the weather didn’t look bad so I left.

About and hour later I wished I hadn’t. The sky was black, riven by lightning flashes and there was a torrential rain. From what I could see though it would pass and indeed the worst was over fairly soon and although still overcast the rain was just light. Whilst all this is going on I just sheltered under the spray hood keeping a watch and the boat steers herself, I didn’t even get wet.

Later visibility improved and I could see the Os Farihoes, a group of islands of the coast. I was aiming to pass between the mainland, Cabo Carvoeiro and the island of Berlenga.

The weather further improved and I rounded Cabo Carvoeiro in bright sunlight and from there it was just a little way to the port of Peniche. I was moored by 4pm so a nice short day, just a  pity that the marina office was closed so no key for the gate. I could have got out of course but not back in. Still I borrowed a card and key from a couple on an English boat which I had seen anchored at Baiona so could have a shower.