by chris ayres | Dec 2014 | UK to New Zealand
On the pontoon I ran into Ollie who I had first meet in Ayamonte, he is sailing his Albin Vega from Scotland to the Caribbean single handed. It was good to meet up again and swap sea tales.
The first afternoon I walked up to the view point over the harbour and then to the lighthouse. Still had my sea legs so the earth kept moving. The town, which is very attractive, is situated where one of the barrancos of the island descends to the sea, there is only a small level area and much of the town climbs steeply up the hillside.
It seemed like my new crew couldn’t cope with shorthanded sailing so she “jumped ship” and I was on my own again.
One day I took a bus to Pajarito and then walked up to Alto de Garajonay, at 1,487m the highest point of the island. There were woods and shrubs, striking volcanic pinnacles and I heard and saw canaries singing in the bushes.
Without effort from me I had two potential crew approach with a view to crossing the Atlantic, both seemed fine so I was faced with a bit of a dilema as which to choose. In the end I solved this by deciding to take both. Bertrand, a french sailor and traveler whose has crossed before and Jason, an American who has been walking and cycling around Europe for a few years.
Sea Bear has been checked over, more provisions bought just the Saturday vegetable market to go to tomorrow morning for fresh veg and then we plan to set of for the Cape Verde Islands.
It seems fitting to be setting out from here. It was this very bay where Columbus set out from with his three ships on his voyage of discovery.
View from Vegaipala on Gomera
by chris ayres | Dec 2014 | UK to New Zealand
After shopping for fresh veg at the market, filling the tanks with water, some last minute chores and getting some exit stamps from the Canaries in the paperwork we were ready for the off, the 870 nautical miles to the Cape Verde Islands.
Ollie blew his fog horn from the marina breakwater to give us a send off. Outside of the harbour sail was set and our initial course followed the coast of La Gomera south so we could appreciate more what a wonderful island this was. Winds were light and variable at first , later clear of the island they picked up and gradually more reefs added so we ended with a triple reefed main and a reefed staysail then later just the reefed staysail with 35 knots of wind. This wasn’t what the forecast had promised at all. The seas built so motion was quite lively and our novice sailor Jason succumbed to ‘mal de mer’ so was excused watches until he recovered.
Conditions improved on the 2nd afternoon at sea, Jason was recovering so sat in on mine and Bertrand’s watches until he had been shown the ropes and we were confident he could stand watches alone. We then ran a 4 hour watch system, 8-12, 12-4, 4-8 This gave us an 8 hour break between watches so a decent sleep could be had. On this passage we did not rotate watches, I had the 4-8 watch so had both sunset and sunrise at around 6.30 but both watches had periods of dark, whereas the others had one ‘dark’ watch and one in daylight.
There was not a lot to see, no land, no other ships, After a while you could wonder if the rest of the world still existed but a sighting of a vapour trail from an airplane assured us the world was still there. There was very little bird life, just the occasional small black birds skimming the waves, I regretted not having a bird book aboard to identify it but thought it might be a sooty petrel. We had a few visits from dolphins and saw turtles and flying fish. One morning found a flying fish on the deck , it was promptly cleaned and popped into the frying pan to provide a small but very tasty morsel for breakfast. Towing a fishing line was unproductive, we lived in hope but were poor in possession.
On the morning of our 8th day out we were within 30 miles of the Cape Verde Islands, but they remained hidden in the haze from the Sahara, the boat had a fine coating of red dust on the windward side. Later the very tip of Pico du Crux on Santo Antao peaked above the haze and as we drew nearer , things though still very hazy became a little clearer. We ran down the channel between Santo Antao and Sao Vicente and turned into the bay Porte Grand where lay Mindelo. Sails handed we were soon moored bow to on a pontoon. 8 days almost to the hour after leaving the Canaries, having reckoned on at least 8 and a half days for the passage I was pleased with our passage.
by chris ayres | Dec 2014 | UK to New Zealand
Our first night we ate ashore to save our supplies for the crossing but also to sample the local fare. We had sort of paella in a rooftop place where a traditional Cape Verde music band played – strong Senegal and Brazilian influence in the music. The town seems very relaxed.
Completed immigration and boat paperwork in the morning without too much fuss once I had found the right offices to go to. There didn’t seem to be any clear signs on doors.
Lunch was eaten at the market, had rice and some fried fish very tasty – a lively place with all sorts going on, women walking by with big baskets of fruit and veg on their heads. Very African here.
You can see that it is very poor, third world you might say, but the people are friendly and smiling.
One of the local dishes is ‘cachupa’ which is some sort of cooked grains, another staple is rice and beans and fish of course when available.
Christmas, well was different, no roast chicken and all the trimmings but we did have Christmas pudding which I had stashed in the food locker, plus custard of course. A culinary first for both my crew.
In the eve the town was really hopping, they had set up a sound system in one square near the beach, so music, people milling about all ages even the tiny tots dancing. Seemed like the whole town was parading about the streets, it was a nice atmosphere.
Friday morning I went to the maritime police and immigration to have the boat and us cleared for exit, as the offices are closed over the weekend. So tomorrow all being well with the meteo, we plan to set off for the atlantic crossing to Barbados 2000 n miles away.
Fishing on the beach
by chris ayres | Jan 2015 | UK to New Zealand
We departed Mindelo in the early afternoon, after a visit to the market for fruit and vegetables and filling the boats tanks with water. Heading south down the channel it was a little hazy and the island of Santo Antao was not visible although only 5 miles away, conditions not unusual for the Cape Verde Islands.
Out of the channel we continued south for some miles so that when turning westward we would not be affected by a wind shadow from the mountains of Santo Antao.
We soon settled in to the routine of watches, deciding on 3 hour watches this time so they would naturally rotate.
We trolled a fishing line and were successful, catching a fine dorado which gave us a tasty dinner and cerviche for lunch the next day
Despite a good forecast for the passage, after a couple of days the skies clouded over and remained so for a week. The wind was stronger than I had been led to believe that the Trades were at 20 to 25 knots apparent and with big seas and a cross swell the seas quite lively so the motion in the boat made life quite tiring. At one point we were reduced to running under just a storm staysail with apparent winds of over 30 knots. This was definately not trade wind sailing like the glossy brochures had suggested. Even when that nasty patch of weather passed we had frequent rain squalls with the wind gusting to 30 knots and more. This slowed progress as you would spot the squall, and reef down but there was a certain reluctance to increase sail again too soon after a squall had passed as sometimes there was another hard on its heels. Particularly at night, with squalls hard to spot we would leave the boat well reefed down so we were not always making best boat speed. We also had a period of non-stop rain for about 7- 8 hours. I was wondering at this point which particular god or gods we had offended so badly, and we hadn’t even left on a Friday!
Most of the time we were running under a reefed main with staysail and partly furled yankee with the wind on the quarter. we tried to run more downwind with a poled out yankee but with the confused sea state we experienced the rolling was horrendous and the risk of an unintended gybe far too high, even with a gybe preventer rigged.
It had been the intention to make Barbados as landfall but at some point, rather than struggle to get south enough, it was more sensible to make for Martinique instead especially since from Barbados it was my intention to head north up to Martinique anyway.
The weather did improve for the last 3 days of our passage, sunshine, blue skies and fluffy white clouds and the seas were not so big with winds of between 10 to 16 knots, much more like the trades.
On our last night at sea we could see the lights of Martinique and with first light, there lay the coast, perfect timing for a landfall. With the wind falling lighter we even dug out and rigged the big cruising chute for the last few miles.
We handed the chute approaching the channel for Le Marin and piloted our way into the anchorage. So many boats after seeing only 3 freighters for the whole passage. We eventually found a clear spot to anchor, hook down, we had arrived. 21 days out from Mindelo 1,111 miles logged, Sea Bear had crossed the Atlantic.
Fish for dinner them
Landfall Martinique
Yole racing le Marin
At anchor Le Marin, Martinique
a Yole
by chris ayres | Jan 2015 | UK to New Zealand
After anchoring at Le Marin, I think it took a while for it to really sink in that we were here in the Caribbean. Firsts things first, after a cup of tea, of course, sail covers on , take off the staysail, tidy up all the ropes, dig out and rig the sun awning. Then it was inflate the dinghy and time to go ashore. We found the dinghy dock and the customs office, but that was closed then wandered along the beach road to the beach where we found a welcoming bar, fresh fruit drinks went down well than to celebrate a t-punch. It was wonderful just to sit there and let it all wash over you, the people the sights the sounds the smells after so long at sea and let it gradually sink in.
Later on we found the supermarket that was open, wine and baggettes and cheese were bought for a picnic on the beach and I found the shower block in the new marina, spirited my way in when someone came out and despite not having a towel or soap had a delightful shower to wash off all the salty spray.
Later that eve there was some bands playing on a stage set up near the beach, good music too.
I ended up staying at La Marin a few days, it was nice just to rest up to be on the boat that was secure at anchor and not moving around all the time. I took the staysail to the sail loft as the topmost eyelet for the piston hank had corroded away and there was a little bit of chafe on the leech despite looking out for potential chafe points ever day, but on a black night they can be hard to spot.
The crew departed, Bertrand wanted to remain in Martinique and I felt the need to reclaim some personal space, it had been a long time coped up together in a small boat.
Olly on “Solage” arrived via Barbados, his first comment to me was its a long way isn’t it.
After getting back the staysail from the loft and reprovisioning, the nearest supermarket had a dinghy dock – very civilised, I was ready to leave.
I had a very pleasant gentle sail past Diamond rock and round to the west coast where I anchored in the bay of Grand Anse. Oh what a lovely place this was, a beautiful bay with water so clear you could see the bottom at anchor in 5 meters. Starfish on the sand, fish swimming by, I even saw turtles, amazing.The tidal range here is only about 2 feet so no worries on that score. There was a golden sand beach, some palm trees all backed by lovely wooded hills and some of beach restaraunts and shacks. Oh the water was such a lovely temperature for swimming. Perhaps this was as close to paradise as I will get.
Next day I walked up and over to headland to the next bay, Petite Anse, saw a hummingbird, swam, walked back and at a lunch of grilled fish creole style. I would have stayed longer here but I have this date to get to Antigua for so I left the next afternoon for a short hop to Fort De France. Coming into the anchorage I found myself in the midst of Yole race so had my work cut out to keep out of all their way. They sure know how to party do Martiniques, a stage set up in the park by the beach and bands playing that eve, for free of course
I had intended to stay just the one night but the following day it was blowing pretty hard, plenty of white horses out in the bay so I stayed, took the opportunity to wander the streets a bit, swim from the beach. Next day I sailed to St Pierre, the town that was wiped out in 1902 by the Volcanoe Mt Pele. This is a suitable jumping off point for continuing North, next stop Dominica.
St Pierre
Retite Anse
Diamond Roack
Grande Anse
Beach at Grande Anse
by chris ayres | Feb 2015 | UK to New Zealand
Weds
Sitting in Sea Bear at anchor off Roseau, Dominica, she is rocking gently and there are sounds of reggae music drifting out to us across the water. I’ve just finished a G&T after dinner. We made a good passage from St Pierre, Martinique. I left with just the faintest glimmer of dawn light in the sky to make sure of getting to Dominica before dark, but we had a really fast passage. Mostly the wind between 15 & 17 knots on the beam, conditions Sea Bear seems to really like, all plain sail set until we took a reef in the main when some gusts pushed 20 knots. For the first time since leaving UK the log was showing an average speed of over 5 knots , in fact 5.5 at one point so we did the passage of 38 n miles in 8 hours, I was really pleased with that.
After anchoring I dinghied ashore and walked to customs to do the paperwork. Quite painless and quick and I liked the clearance document they gave me:
“Commonwealth of Dominica, port of Roseau. This is to certify to all whom it doth concern that Chris Ayres, Master and Commander of Sea Bear burden of 5.89 tons, GRP built and bound for Les Saintes, Guadeloupe having on board ships stores hath here entered and cleared his said vessel according to law.”
After clearance I wandered around town a bit, very different to Martinique, which is very French. This is very, well, Dominican and in a way kinda much more of what you suspect the Caribbean to be like if you have never been. Instead of French supermarkets and boulangeries and cafes, there are little grocery stores, all sorts of little shacks and shops, roads with big open gutters, pavements which well are broken and uneven and all different materials. Its more like life in the raw.
The island is more mountainous too with lusher vegetation, its all a riot of colour too, greens of the trees & vegetation and brightly painted houses and shacks. There were clouds over the mountains and rain showers and beautiful rainbows over the tropical forests.
The people are different too, there are more guys with dreadlocks for instance and it helps that English is the language.
Thurs
Decided would be a pity not to see some of the interior of Dominica so hailed Pancho as he went past this morning, he is one of the good “boat boys” and asked about organising a trip in. As it happened, two other couples, one French Canadian the other English were about to go and could do with another person to make up the numbers, so I hopped aboard Pancho’s boat and off we went. Anyway all aboard a minibus and off, lovely drive up into the mountains, first to a waterfall in the national park, in steep tropical forest in the mountains and we bathed in the pool under the falls, then another waterfall and pool, both a bit of walking through the forest which is quite incredible. A spot of lunch at a roadside eating spot , baked chicken drumsticks and fried plantain, then to a beach at Soufriere. Here volcanic gases bubble up through the sand and heat up the sand and the water, hence bubble beach. Ooh and I saw pelicans too for the first time in the wild.
Fri
Now at Portsmouth, Dominica, anchored in Prince Ruperts bay. I had hoped to see whales today as they are supposed to like this coast but no luck. Had read bad things about the Portsmouth boat boys but they were good, they have formed an organisation and seem a nice bunch of guys. Always very polite, friendly and helpful, very careful not to bang their boats into yours. I bought some of the sweetest juiciest grapefruits that I have ever had from Christian in his little rowing boat, very welcome after a hot sail up the coast.
Sat
Well I might have said that the Martiniques know how to party, can only say Dominicans do it more so.! Music drifting out over the bay all night till about 7 this morning, and carnival not started yet, starts Sunday apparently, guess they were just having a Friday night warm up!
Took a trip up the Indian river this morning, by rowing boat, only those allowed, no outboards etc, cos its a national park site. Thick with jungle type trees and coconut palms and lianas. Its where they filmed parts of Pirates of the Caribbean, when they went up the river into the jungle, was a good little trip. Shared a boat with the English couple and their two kids who I meet the other day and went to the waterfalls etc with.
In the evening the Portsmouth boat boys aka PAYS put on a beach barbecue for all the sailors, plenty of rum punch, chicken legs, grilled fish, rice and salad and of course loud reggae music.
Sun
Carnival starts, the small town of Portsmouth was packed with crowds lining the streets, music blaring out and beer and punch drinking and then came along the procession. The biggest loudest sound systems I have ever see or heard, dancing girls, beauty queens, stilt walkers and then a band . There was dancing in the street, people having fun, all rather wonderful.
I will leave in the morning to cross the Dominican channel bound for Les Saints and Guadeloupe.
Roseau
Waterfall
Emerald pool
Indian River
Carnival
Carnival
