SEA BEAR

Half Way Round

by chris ayres | Dec 2018 | UK to New Zealand

Track of Sea Bear for past 4 years

After some time back in the UK I will soon be returning to NZ to rejoin my boat Sea Bear. I thought it might be a good time for a brief summary of the trip so far, after all we are halfway around.
Some 2 months after retiring I left the UK in August 2014 aboard Sea Bear singlehanded. My plans was to head for Panama with a loose aim of a circumnavigation, but nothing was written in stone and I was keeping an open mind whether I would enjoy a cruising lifestyle. I had done the necessary preparations, studied the pilot books and passage notes, bought the charts and stocked up with provisions and spares. I had singlehanded before, mostly day trips but this would be the first time I was setting out on a long trip on my own. There was thus a degree of trepidation particularly since I was heading to cross the Bay of Biscay.
After a landfall in Northern Spain I coast hopped south to Portugal then Spain again. At Cadiz, Merel joined me for the trip to Morocco and then the Canaries. She had wanted to cross the Atlantic with me but found she suffered badly from seasickness so sadly but wisely disembarked here.
At Gomera, 2 new crew presented themselves and they came with me first to the Cape Verde Islands and then across the pond to Martinique. Singlehanded again I had originally thought to push on through to Panama but I was seduced by the delights of the Caribbean and spent the next two seasons exploring here. I spent the hurricane season in Trinidad then sailed up the chain of the islands to Cuba. The next hurricane season found me in Panama after a tough passage from Jamaica. Then it was decision time – through the canal or not? After a visit to the delightful Guna Yala islands, I took the plunge, transited the Panama canal and set off to cross the Pacific. A stop over in the Galapagos fulfilled a lifetime ambition then the long haul, 34 days to the Marquesas. It is a long time to be on ones own, hats off to those sailors who tackle the challenge of solo non stop round the world. French Polynesia was wonderful the Tuamotos, Tahiti, the Windwards, Tonga and so eventually New Zealand in time to miss the South Pacific cyclone season.

Work on Sea Bear

by chris ayres | Feb 2019 | UK to New Zealand

Sometimes when you are working on a boat, progress seems painfully slow but gradually it gets done. Progress was not helped by the long Christmas break that some business in NZ take, but after all it is the middle of their summer and they want to take their summer holidays, escape to the beach or whatever. So I was held  up waiting for parts and rather than getting one job finished I had about 3 or 4 jobs on the go at once, all waiting either for bits or for someone else to do something.

The fitting of a new log was one of those that should have been simple but… it was a NMEA200 instrument so required a backbone cable installing, thicker wires so that the existing  holes that the wire passed through had to be enlarged. A new through hull fitting installed, again a bigger hole needed. I could just swop the log with the old log but instead had to use the old depth sounder position, moving that to a new through hull fitting on the other side of the hull and the wires for that re-routing. Of course the instrument head needed a bigger opening in the instrument console and of course to route the new cables the hatch garage had to be taken off and also 3 of the cabin ceiling panels and the switch panel radio panel and plotter AIS panel. With half the lockers having to be emptied as well the inside of the boat was in turmoil whilst this was underway. To compound matters  work was underway to install the windlass so all the forward stowage area was emptied out. The inside of the boat and the cockpit was like Steptoe’s yard and made living a bit difficult. Still it will be a good incentive to get rid of some stuff.

Installing the windlass provided its own set of challenges. 2 big holes had to be cut through the foredeck. Not having the required hole saws and they being expensive to buy for just one use I got Bruce to do this for me. Lots of measuring, use of a made up template and pondering before the holes were cut as it wouldn’t do to get this wrong. 

Holes cut in deck for the windlass

Once the holes were cut the edges were sealed with epoxy and glass-fibre tape to safeguard against water ingress to the plywood deck core. Reassuringly the deck is almost an inch thick, they are solidly built these Vancouvers.

With the windlass all fitted time to fit the solenoid, circuit breaker, up/down cockpit switches and foot switches. Then it was just a matter of wiring it all in, not a simple matter routing two 25mm battery cables from battery to the windlass solenoid plus the switch wiring, much head scratching was required but at last all done. Low and behold the windlass runs. I just have to make good the deck where that old hawse pipe ran.

Wiring to solenoid and windlass

With the forward stowage empty I repainted it with white bilge paint.  Horrid process, hot, cramped, airless and very fumy. It was like painting the inside of the black hole of Calcutta white.

An interlude from working on my boat was to give Noel and Mark a hand to pick up some timber for the new boat that Noel is building. Noel’s boat was very near mine in the town basin marina when I first arrived in Whangarei, it is a beautiful 50ft something wooden ketch that he built and which he sailed around the world including Cape Horn. He has decided as he is getting older (he is my age)  he is going to downsize so building a new 35ft boat. Mark is restoring an old wooden boat next to me in the boatyard and it has been fascinating watching the work progress. 

Anyway Noel was buying some Oregon Pine for his topside planks so we drove up to Russell in the Bay of Islands to pick it up. Now the biggest was a serious bit of timber 20” wide by 8” thick by 40 foot long and it took some handling to get it out of the stack and on to the trailer.

Its that bit with the yellow spot at the bottom of the stack we want

Winching the wood onto the trailer

2 more pieces 10’’ wide by 8” thick by 40 foot long completed the load. Offloading at Noels plot of land where the boat will be built was thankfully easier.

To tackle the replacement of the cutlass bearing I had at first  to remove the rudder so that I could draw the propshaft. With the rudder off I could replace the delron rudder bushes which where showing signs of wear. One of the great things about re-fitting in Whangarei is that you can source most everything so a visit to a bearing shop soon supplied new bushes which were easily fitted.

New rudder bushes

Drawing the propshaft revealed a badly worn shaft. It had obviously been once repaired by grinding down and building up again, this had failed big time. Nothing for it but a new shaft. Mark told me the man to see and soon I had a new shaft machined up at  what I though a bargain price. 

Removing the cutlass bearing proved a little tricky but careful investigation revealed the grub screw which held it in place and then careful work with a hacksaw blade to make 2 lengthwise cuts and out came the old bearing. A new one was soon fitted. Meanwhile I had taken the opportunity to check over the engine, I like these careful checks as you can often spot potential problems, in this case a partially cracked & perished fuel return hose. I also replacing the sacrificial anodes in the engine and repainted a few rusty spots. The bilges were also cleaned with the bilge pump hoses removed and cleaned. In the process I found a screwdriver lodged in the bilge pump hose, one that I knew I had dropped into the bilges at some time but had been unable to find and had forgotten about.

old cutlass bearing

new cutlass bearing

Before refitting the propshaft  I repacked the stern gland.

Inserting the new prop shaft

Refitting the rudder was a little tricky on my own as it weighs a fair bit and you have to align the 2 rudder pintles and the heel bearing but a little ingenuity saw it done.

refitting rudder

The sorely neglected outboard engine was due some tlc. But I was pleased that with a clean spark plug and some petrol it started and ran and even cooling water flowed through it. It was looking rather tatty though so after a partial disassembly I scrapped of the flacking paint and primed and painted it so it looks respectable again.

One major job on my long list was to redo the copper coat on the hull which was wearing time in places. This was a job  that I didn’t feel able to tackle myself so I employed Bruce to do it. After a light sanding of the hull Bruce and his 2 helpers put on 5 coats of copper coat in one day- each fresh coat has to be applied whilst the previous coat is still tacky and the special epoxy, hardener and copper particles carefully mixed in smallish quantities as the pot life is only about 20 mins and the copper must not be allowed to settle out. I helped with the mixing but watching them work I realised that i had made the right decision to not try it myself.

Mixing the copper coat

Finished 5 coats of copper coat

Ronnie is making a new spray hood and is just putting the finishing touches to it. I suppose the old one has done well but I didn’t think it had another season left in it.

Ronnnie making a start on a new spray hood

There is still much to be done before Sea Bear is ready for the water again but I feel all the major stuff has been tackled and we are getting there.

Not (quite) all work no play

by chris ayres | Mar 2019 | UK to New Zealand

They say a man can’t live by work alone so it’s not been all work and no play. More work on Sea Bear yes, a SS bash plate for the bow. I thought the existing anchor a little on the light side so a new 15kg Manson supreme anchor with 50 m of 8mm graduated chain and 50m of 14mm anchorplait rode to complete the new anchoring arrangement. I replaced a lower shroud which was mysteriously bent. Stripped re-painted and re-assembled the pumps for the heads and cleaned and regreased the seacocks. Stripped and overhauled all 8 winches.

Bash plate

For a break I headed north in the van up to Maitai bay on the Karikari peninsular. I had been there before but such a beautiful place and good campsite it was worth a second visit. A lovely spot for a swim and I also took a long walk along a deserted beach then a track up to Tapakakeno hill with great views up and down the coast.

Maitai Bay

I also visited Puheke beach and walked up Mt Puheke again good views. I hadn’t been my intention but I found myself drawn to visit Cape Reinga, almost the most northerly point of North Island. It is wild empty country up there.

Cape Reinga

A steepish gravel road for which NZ is famous for took me to a campsite at Tapotupotu beach.

Tapotupotu campsite

Next morning it rained so I headed back south but stopped awhile at the Te Paki giant sand dunes, the rain stopped and I had an exhausting climb up the highest dune, one step up then sliding backwards in soft sand.

Te Paki sand dunes

Resumed working on the boat, much cleaning, some revarnishing. I fitted some lazy jacks to help handle what would be a very slippery and stiff new mainsail. Refitted the stripper rope cutter to the propshaft. Rebuilt the spare autopliot with new drive belts. Eyespliced a chain hook to a length of 3strand rope for an anchor strop. Stripped and greased furling system.
Checking over the engine, I replaced the water pump hoses, decided I needed a new water pump for it. Took off the monitor self steering for a crack in the tubing to be repaired.
More cleaning, cutting back and polishing the gelcoat of the topsides and cabin so Sea Bear looking much better.

Starting to think of the coming sailing season it was time to review my stock of charts. Another trip in the campervan down to Auckland to visit the chart agent and buy some charts and pilot books. I took the opportunity to visit the Waitakere Ranges to the west of Auckland, I had been rained off here last year. It was a shame that quite a few of the tracks were closed due to Kauri dieback disease but did get a nice walk in through the forest. Off then to Piha beach, a great west coast beach famous for its surf, Walked up Lion rock.

Piha Beach from Lion Rock

Another walk up the Kitekite valley to get to the Kitekite falls. The plunge pool at the bottom was just too inviting so a bathe was taken – refreshing the verdict.

Kitekite Falls

Next stop was Karekare beach, a short walk through trees to the black sand beach. The sand was just too hot for my bare feet. It’s a big empty beach with wild surf and dangerous rip currents so I didn’t swim here. Back over to the East coats and Snell’s beach then up to Goat Island marine reserve. The idea was to swim with the fishes but soon after arrival a rain squall turned up, heavy rain and a choppy sea. A section of gravel track over the hill took me back northwards, this one not dry and dusty but muddy slippy and running with water and it rained all the way back to Whangarei and most of the next day too.
Good weather soon returned though, it is still very warm here in the day, still shorts and vest weather but you can feel a gradually change of the seasons, the nights are drawing in and the odd morning is a little chilly at first.

I thought that by now I would have already been back afloat, but there is still awhile until the end of the southern cyclone season and the time to sail away from NZ. Most of the work is now done on the boat but there are always little jobs like checking the navigation lights still work – ah well then lets check the deck plugs, ah a bit of corrosion, a broken wire sounds simple but takes hours to fix, my soldering iron is not working so a visit to the second hand tool shop for one, new plug needed – off to the chandelery for one, before you know it the day has gone.
I swarmed up the mast today to check all the standing rigging swages, clevis pins and split pins and lubricate the halyard sheaves. The climbing know how helps here and a harness and a shunt on a tied off halyard makes it safe enough.

Back in the Water and on the Move.

by chris ayres | Apr 2019 | UK to New Zealand

At last I was about ready, jobs done sails and running rigging fitted, it was time to launch. Hoisted in slings overnight there was time to dab on some anti-foul on where she had been sitting all this time.

Ready for Launching

Then early next morning Sea Bear was lowered into the water, First thing to check for leaks and a little adjustment on the stern gland that I had repacked with stuffing and deliberately left a little loose. Adjusted too tight runs the risk of excessive wear on the propshaft and damaging the stuffing, a controlled drip is the thing to aim for. All well then a short motor to tie to a pontoon, time to get used to being afloat.

Back in water at RDM

After a few days it was time to leave. A little shakedown cruise in order and to see a bit more of NZ by sea. The problem of the van was solved by Mark offering to store it on his land so looks like I will be heading back to NZ next cyclone season, and why not still plenty to explore there. It felt a little strange slipping away from Whangarei on the top of the tide and heading down the river. I have spent so much time there over the past year and a bit it almost feels like a second home to me.

Whangarei

The weather didn’t seem quite as forecast as I neared the river mouth. Much stronger winds than expected and my proposed anchorage at Urquharts bay not as sheltered as hoped for.  Still I tucked in amongst the other boats at anchor and used the new windlass for the first time, out rattled the chain, the new anchor bit right away and there I was bobbing on the briny. I stayed there the next day to give a chance for wind and seas to moderate.

Urquharts Bay

It was a longish haul to my next destination so with a scant 12 hours of daylight I was up at 3am hauled in the anchor and away. Motoring as no wind but the channel out to the clearway buoy is well lit. Some wind arrived with the dawn so all sails were set and being new they looked well. I was hard on the wind but could almost set the course I wanted south down the coast. I had to make a few tacks to round Cape Rodney though and then across Omaha bay to Takatu Point. Here the wind died but it was just a fairly short motor through North Channel then around the corner to enter Bon Accord Harbour, Kawau Island. My hunch proved correct and I spied Morpheus of London with friends Jan & Richard at anchor here. True to form they invited me to join them ashore at the Kawau boat club for drinks.

Smelting Cove Kawau Island

I stayed at anchor here for a few days, we had a high over NZ with very light winds and I dont like motoring much. I went for a couple of nice walks across to Mansion house bay and to the old copper mine.

Mansion House bay Kawau Island

It was quite and peaceful here with just a few boats but Easter arrived and with it the crowds, at quick count  there was over a hundred boats at anchor here.

Rain and wind last night when that clears over next day I will move on. It’s getting close to time to head north to the Bay of Islands where I will wait for a suitable weather window to head off on passage to the Islands.

Shake down cruise to Opua

by chris ayres | May 2019 | UK to New Zealand

So I decided to head back north making use of the southerly winds to hop back up the coast.
SW 20 knots was forecast which was almost ideal although would have prefered a more gentle 15knots. But the first leg was about 40 miles so with 20 it should be speedy.
I weighed anchor and left at first light from Kawau bay, out through the north channel and was soon rounding Takatu point and could set corse northwards. The worst part of the journey was the last two miles when I seemed to hit nasty conditions of wind over tide at the entrance to Whangarei harbour but anchored OK in Urquharts bay.

Bream Head

Next day just a short hop up to Tutaka harbour, quite a narrow entrance between rocks to this but good leading marks to help you in and very sheltered inside. I had wanted the objective for the next anchorage to be Minywatter bay but the forecast was for wind to go around to NW in the evening so not ideal and I carried on to Whangamumu.

What a beautiful landlocked and sheltered harbour this was. No roads no houses just the ruins of and old whaling station. I had noticed that I had a problem with the engine charging so a spot of careful trouble shooting led to the discovery of a broken earth wire from the alternator fairly easily fixed but it lead to what if thoughts.
I rowed to the old whaling station and after a wander around this.

Old whaling station plaque

then another beach where I left the dinghy and walked up steeply to the ridge and part way down the other side towards the Bay of Islands, the promintory being quite narrow here. I was hoping for good view but got only tantalising glimpses through the thick tree cover.

Whangamumu

Whangamumu harbour

I stayed a second night at anchor here sheltering from rain and occasional high winds.
From Whangamumu just a short hop around Cape Brett.

Cape Brett

I had been unable to get a weather forecast on the VHF so discovered it was still blowing hard outside and was around 30 knots on the nose with quite a sea, far from pleasant conditions and I got quite splashed. I put into Oke bay for awhile but later in the afternoon when the weather had calmed somewhat and the wind gone around to the SW I went on again through the Albert channel to Waipora Bay for the night.

Later the next day I carried on the remaining miles to Bay of Islands Marina where I had booked a berth.
As well as a small modification necessary to the new mainsail I had decided to get an alternator as a spare. I fact I fitted a new one keeping the old as spare and also changed the charging set up, fitting a dual voltage VCR unit and switches.This will cope with the 2 different batteries I now have better. I had bought this ages ago, originally for Dansa but never got around to fitting it and it had sat almost forgotten in a locker on Sea Bear for the past 5 years.
Also time to get some laundry done, restock on provisions and do the paper work for leaving New Zealand and heading for Fiji.