by chris ayres | Apr 2015 | UK to New Zealand
The morning I left St Kitts, Terry came aboard, gave me a St Kitts cap and a book, and we motored, it being calm, the 2 miles to Frigate Bay where we anchored. Terry thought I should experience a breakfast at Shiggy Shack, so we went ashore and had the full monty, that is full English breakfast. Seemed a bit incongruous eating a full breakfast on a Caribbean beach, was my first cooked breakfast for maybe 8 months and I haven’t missed them but this was nice for a change and proper set me up for the day. Back at the boat I had a gentle breeze so made sail northwards along the St Kitts coastline. I’ll go back some day to see more of this lovely island. Departing from the northern tip we had calm for a while but then the breeze was back and the shortish passage to Statia was made. The proper name for the island is St Eustatius but the locals call it Statia. Arriving of Oranjestad, the main town and port I anchored off the beach. It seemed that Easter holidays were in full swing as lined along the beach under the cliffs were sound systems, bands, barbecues, kids on the beach. They certainly like their partying do the Statians. Ashore next day all seemed to be shut up, the Port Office, the National Park Office so I couldn’t complete formalities. I decided to walk up the volcano, called the Quill which dominates the town, you are supposed to buy a hiking permit but as the offices were shut I decided to go anyway. The way up from the old town, situated on a narrow strip between the beach and the cliffs, mostly destroyed since its heyday in the 18th century, was up the old paved slave road which led from the beach up to the old slave market on top of the cliffs. One wonders what would lead western society to treat Africans in this way, and we called ourselves civilised.!!!! Passing through the outskirts of the town there was a huge tortoise in someones front garden, must have been a foot and a half long. Higher the track led through woodland, here were purple clawed hermit crabs, they used large snail shells for homes. We are used to thinking of crabs as seaside creatures not 800 ft up a mountain. Arriving at the crater rim you could look down into the crater itself which is full of forest, silk cotton trees and strangler f The morning I left St Kitts Terry came aboard, gave me a St Kitts cap and a book, and we motored, it being calm, the 2 miles to Frigate Bay where we anchored. Terry thought I should experience a breakfast at Shiggy Shack, so we went ashore and had the full monty, that is full English breakfast. Seemed a bit incongruous eating a full breakfast on a Caribbean beach, was my first cooked breakfast for maybe 8 months and I haven’t missed them but this was nice for a change and proper set me up for the day. Back at the boat I had a gentle breeze so made sail northwards along the St Kitts coastline. I’ll go back some day to see more of this lovely island. Departing from the northern tip we had calm for a while but then the breeze was back and the shortish passage to Statia was made. The proper name for the island is St Eustatius but the locals call it Statia. Arriving of Oranjestad, the main town and port I anchored off the beach. It seemed that Easter holidays were in full swing as lined along the beach under the cliffs were sound systems, bands, barbecues, kids on the beach. They certainly like their partying do the Statians. Ashore next day all seemed to be shut up, the Port Office, the National Park Office so I couldn’t complete formalities. I decided to walk up the volcano, called the Quill which dominates the town, you are supposed to buy a hiking permit but as the offices were shut I decided to go anyway. The way up from the old town, situated on a narrow strip between the beach and the cliffs, mostly destroyed since its heyday in the 18th century, was up the old paved slave road which led from the beach up to the old slave market on top of the cliffs. One wonders what would lead western society to treat Africans in this way, and we called ourselves civilised.!!!! Passing through the outskirts of the town there was a huge tortoise in someones front garden, must have been a foot and a half long. Higher the track led through woodland, here were purple clawed hermit crabs, they used large snail shells for homes. We are used to thinking of crabs as seaside creatures not 800 ft up a mountain. Arriving at the crater rim you could look down into the crater itself which is full of forest, silk cotton trees and strangler figs. Here too was a feral rooster and feral chickens, one rooster followed me to the rim, quite a bold beast would eat out of your hand. I went some down into the crater but the thought of the climb back out deterred me from going to far, beside I had left my full water bottle on the boat and was feeling a little parched.There were lots of little geckos too but I did not spot one of the Statia iguanas. Back at the beach the party was just warming up again and in the evening things were really hopping. The sound systems all blaring out vying with the bands and the motor bike boys revving their 1000cc bikes up to the full. Mind you there are not that many roads for a burn up on an island that is 4 miles long and 2 mile wide. Crazy crazy Statia, a lovely gem of an island. igs. Here too was a feral rooster and feral chickens, one rooster followed me to the rim, quite a bold beast would eat out of your hand. I went some down into the crater but the thought of the climb back out deterred me from going to far, beside I had left my full water bottle on the boat and was feeling a little parched.There were lots of little geckos too but I did not spot one of the Statia iguanas. Back at the beach the party was just warming up again and in the evening things were really hopping. The sound systems all blaring out vying with the bands and the motor bike boys revving their 1000cc bikes up to the full. Mind you there are not that many roads for a burn up on an island that is 4 miles long and 2 mile wide. Crazy crazy Statia, a lovely gem of an island.
Anchorage at Statia
Purple clawed Hermit crab
Quill Crater
Rooster
Gecko
Beach Party
by chris ayres | Apr 2015 | UK to New Zealand
The passage to St Barts was not enjoyable. I left the anchorage at Statia early and though I would go around the south of the island as it would give me a better slant on the wind to cross However tacking around the south of the island proved just too hard, winds too strong and waves big so after hour and half I had made little progress.Turned around and was back level with the anchorage in 15 mins! so up to the north tip of the island then across. A course almost hard on the wind should have seen me across, not like the passage notes in the pilot that suggest it should be an easy reach. What with leeway, the current and the waves all pushing me northwards it was soon obvious that I would have to go hard on the wind. The waves seemed unusually large considering the wind strength, just about 18 – 20 knots, sometimes a bit lower and arrangements down below got re-arranged., with stuff all over the cabin floor. As it was I entered up motoring the last miles as I had been headed by the wind and it turned into a race against the sunset, punching into short steep waves with spray everywhere. It was the sort of passage that makes you wonder why you sail at all! Oh and the sunset won, just so I anchored in the dark. Not too bad though channel buoy lights and other boats at anchor.
Here I am back on the mainstream cruising circuit and there are hundreds of boats. Unlike Monseratt, Nevis, St Kitts and Statia where there are relatively few yachts about.
I had had to anchor some way out and so it was a long dinghy ride into Gustavia to complete entrance formalities. It feels more like the Med here than the Caribbean, there seemed a surprising lack of black faces, the population seemed European, its very French, very smart very chic and expensive too. 5 Euros for a coffee. After a couple of day I moved just a few miles up the coast to Anse du Colombier. This was much nicer, a very lovely bay with turtles swimming about and a gorgeous beach. I walked along a nice coastal path to Anse de Flamades, saw lizards and iguanas. Back at the boat I spent some time diving under the boat scrubbing the bottom watched by some attractive fish.
Anse du Colombier
Anse du Colombier
Path to Anse des Flamandes
by chris ayres | Apr 2015 | UK to New Zealand
An easy downwind sail passing between the island of Ile Fourche and the rocks of the Groupers took me me to Sint Maarten. In coastal waters here past Great Bay the water was a beautiful turquoise but I am still finding it a little unnerving after all these months in the Caribbean seeing the bottom so clearly even at 20 meters depth. Anchoring in Simpson Bay I dinghied in to complete formalities. The guy behind me in the queue was a bit pushy and got a good telling off from the lady official, good one lady.
Next day I moved in through the opening bridge to the Lagoon, I fancied a quieter anchorage away from the constant ocean swell where I could get some jobs done more easilyand perhaps the best chandelries in the whole Caribbean are here. One job was to fit a stereo, iPods are all very well but the bit of music I wanted to listen to never seemed to be on the pod. The stereo I fitted could play the radio, music from iPod and also music from a usb device so I could have access to my entire collection – great.
The other job was to complete the hull cleaning, with being in the water a full year now there was a certain fuzziness to the bottom. I rigged a rope under the boat fastened off side to side by the stanchions and with its aid could dive under the boat and bracing my feet against the keel , scrape off the bottom. It cleaned off easily.only trouble was there is only so much you can scrape with one lung full of air so it took some time and was quite tiring. From time to time the rope had to be repositioned but eventually after several session it was done.
I didn’t much care for the Dutch side of the island at Simpsom bay somehow, all ribbon development along the busy roads, so I went around to the French side and anchored off Marigot. Seemed a nice little town this, I could have stayed longer but I had it in my head that it was time to turn around and head south. The forecast for the next week was good lighter winds and easterly looked ideal.
The new stereo
by chris ayres | Apr 2015 | UK to New Zealand
I knew it would be an uphill struggle to get back against the wind to St Barts, didn’t quite figure that it would take all day, hard on the wind , lots of tacking and a wind and sea state that belied the forecast. However I got back to Anse du Colombier before sunset and picked up a mooring in time for a swim, good after a head day.
First light the next day I slipped the mooring bound for St Kitts, I knew it would be another long day Close hauled I could hold the desired course and rounded the north end of the island in good time but then a long succession of beats down the coast took ages until a race against the sun setting took me to White House Bay to anchor.
Monseratt was the next destination, first I had to sail past Nevis then it was hard on the wind, 20 25 knots of it – what was this about light winds in the forecast and there was some south in the wind too so with that and punching into the waves i couldn’t hold the desired course. I had thought of anchoring off Little Bay but was pushed too far south and in late afternoon a quick mental calculation of miles to go with tacking and time before sunset it was apparent that I wouldn’t make it. The course I was on would clear the south of the island so be it, a night passage to Guadeloupe it would be. I did give me a fairly close look at the ruins of Plymouth destroyed by the volcanic eruption 20 years ago and yes the volcano was still smoking after all these years.
Ruins of Plymouth Monseratt
It was a long night, catnapping was difficult due to the number of ships about , none came close but I like to keep tabs on them. I had shortened sail before dark – it was blowing 25 knots mind, preferring comfort to speed but probably overdid it and when the winds eased later perhaps should have set more sail. It was a slow passage and dawn found me still mile away from Guadeloupe. Things were not helped by rain squalls which blotted out all visibility. I had though to make for and anchor at Deshaies but had been pushed to far south so settled for making for Pigeon Islands and anchored in the bay there early afternoon. Time for a nap. Waking I wasn’t quite happy with the anchorage here, the wind was shifty, swinging room was limited by other boats and holding not too great so I up anchor and moved 5 miles down the coast to Anse du Barque – much better. and had a very peaceful night here.
Raising anchor the next morning was hard as in swinging the chain seemed to have wrapped itself around a rock but eventually I got it up and was of. But what was this A southerly wind of 20 knots and I wanted to go south down the coast. I am never ever going to believe in weather forecasts ever again. It has been wrong every day. Plan A had been to make it to Dominica, scrapped that go the Les Saintes instead, this lies further East so more tacking but not so far to go and from there should give a better slant on the wind for Dominica. Plenty of vacant moorings in Bourge les Saintes.
I remained here the next day, it was cloudy with rain but I fancied a stretch of legs ashore. I walked up to Fort Napoleon , very well preserved and lovely views and I also saw Iguanas – fantastic animals, wouldn’t mind a couple in my garden.
Bourge les Saintes from Fort Napoleon
Net mending Les Saintes
Beach picture
Iguana
Iguana
Onwards then to Dominica, but so much for a favourable slant of the wind which had gone to the SE. Then halfway across the wind died. I slopped about in the residual swell for what seemed like a decent interval then resorted to the motor. Anchoring in Prince Rupert Bay I noticed that Harvey and Rita’s boat was here, I’d seen them last in Antugua, and later bumped into them ashore at the Blue Bay Bar. Barely ashore this, you land on a slightly wobbly wooden jetty and the waves lap at the front of the bar terrace, a nice spot.
by chris ayres | May 2015 | UK to New Zealand
Moving on to Roseau was a strange wind wise day, everything from flat calms to gentle sailing breezes and 25 knots and from all different directions, made it difficult to get the sails right and I lost count of reefs in reefs out, yankee furled away yankee unfurled. Made for a frustrating day. Picked up one of Sea Cat’s moorings once at Roseau. But the strange SW swell that we have been having for the past few days made it anything but a restful night. I had planned to stay a while and visit the interior but in view of the swell I left early next morning. The forecast was for Easterly 15 knot winds- which would have been lovely. Passing Scotts Head at the south of the island was gusty as might be expected but then it settled down to a steady SE 18 knots. Well I could live with that even though it meant being closehauled rather than on a more comfortable reach for the 26 miles across to Martinique. Later the wind dropped to average about 13 knots and a gentle sea state but after a hour or so of this the wind was up to 20 knots plus and the sea a bit more agitated and then 25 lots of wind and then later everything from 5 knots, virtual calms to 25 knots, difficult sailing. Eventually we were in the lee of Martinque and no wind but a slop of a sea. Never mind not so far to St Pierre to anchor.
St Pierre was the site of a big volcanic disaster in 1902 when the Mt Pele erupted, engulfing the town, at the time the biggest in Martinque, in a fireball of superheated gas. There were just 2 survivors, an estimated 29,933 people died and 12 ships at anchor in the bay were destroyed. Today many ruins remain, still blackened around the edges, the population is about 6,000. the town is quite interesting and Mt Pele is quiet.
After a couple of days here it was on to Fort De France. A strong wind onto nose so tacking. It was May day so everything was shut but the beach and park were humming with activity.
Another day I took a “taxi collective” (the equivalent of a bus) out through the busy outskirts and across the middle fertile agricultural part of the island past plantation of bananas and sugar cane fields to La Francoise, a quiet little town – not much there but it enabled me to see more of the island.
Time to leave Fort de France, supplies bought, sail covers off, all made ready to hoist the anchor but the weather thought otherwise, blowing 25 knots in the anchorage and the bay a mass of white horses. No I thought I don’t have to go, so I didn’t.
Forecast was better for next day so dawn saw me hauling in the anchor. Nice sailing breeze across the bay and down the coast but thereafter if was 22 knots plus, mostly more like 25 knots for the rest of the day. 2 reefs in the main and just the staysail up. The wind kicked up quite a sea at times and at one point a wave joined me in the cockpit, breaking over my head. Still one advantage of Caribbean sailing is even the water is not cold and you soon dry off, albeit a little salty. Made it to the shelter of Marigot Bay, St Lucia and anchored outside the lagoon. A scenic spot this, decided to stay over next day.
Next stop was off Soufriere, just 10 miles down the coast, a most beautiful coast I must say. Soufriere Bay is dominated by the Pitons, two wonderful volcanic peaks. I moored off the bat cave but it was a little rolly here so later moved across the bay hoping it would be quieter off the town.
Marigot Bay St Lucia
The Pitons
Soufriere
by chris ayres | May 2015 | UK to New Zealand
Soufriere was the jumping off point for crossing to St Vincent. A dawn start saw me away, motoring as it was calm across the bay and past the Pitons. Rounding Gros Piton point I had wind, gentle at first and could set a course for St Vincent. Later the wind strengthened a little, but a nice beam wind this and not too bad a sea and Sea Bear responded by showing 6 knots on the log, go Bear go, there were 40 miles to go so great to get good speed. I even saw some dolphins, the first I have seen in the Caribbean.
Much later as we neared the north end of St Vincent the wind picked up again, to expected as it accelerates around the end of the island and the sea a little livelier so I put the first reef in the main. A bit later I felt the need for a 2nd reef in the main and furl the working jib as it was getting a bit of a handful. However no sooner than I had done that the wind dropped and then a calm. We were in the lee of the island, thereafter it was a little fitful but we slid calmly along the sea being flat in the lee and entered Wallilabou Bay. This was the main setting for “Pirates Of the Caribbean”. Mooring bouy picked up and a stern line led to the old pilings with the aid of a boat boy and Sea Bear was snug. I had been a good fast passage. Time for a swim then later a beer ashore. Meet and chatted with the lovely American couple of the cat moored next to me Lew and Bev. and we ate together- lovely grilled fish, Amberjack, never had before, very tasty.
It was so peaceful and lovely here, I walked for about 4 hours the next day firstly up the valley then back to the beach.Hear I watched some strange ritual involving 3 corpulent ladies a man with a bell and book and a bag of what I think were flower petals, much anointing with sea water, bathing dunking and bell ringing. It went on a long time and gave some amusement to a man who came down to bathe and who I chatted with. I continued the walk along through Keartons and to Barrouallie the next village along the coast. All very scenic and interesting, got the impression that they don’t see many tourists or “whities” around these parts.
St Vincent is a pretty poor island, you can tell partly because the boat boys and fisherman have little rowing boats, not the big piroques with big outboard motors like other islands, some of the boat boys that sell fruits just paddle around on a surf board . The fisherman row 3 miles or so out to see in these little boats to go fishing, its quite incredible. Ashore some of the tiny shacks that people live in too speak of poverty
St Vincent was beautiful, loved it there and to think I nearly passed it by because it has a bad reputation for boat boys and robberies from boats
Wallilabou
Wallilabou Bay
Wallilabou valley