A sailing blog about a skipper and his yacht

Maewo & Ambae 12th – 18th Oct

Ambae from Loltong bay

Morning dawned, although overcast it looked suitable for moving on so I weighed anchor and motored carefully out between the shallow patches. Once clear I hoisted sail and set course for Maewo the next island to the north about 10 miles away. The forecast was for an E wind 10-15 knots but oh how wrong this was. It wasn’t long before the weather closed in and I was hit with a vicious rain squall 25 knots plus of wind, torrential rain and almost no visibility. Fortunately I had clear water all around. The squall eased after a while  but then I was hit by an even fiercer one perhaps 30 -35 knots. I was down to just a triple reefed main at this point but the seas were building with breaking crests, it was far from pleasant.

Eventually it passed and the weather looked to be improving. I passed two yachts exiting Asanvani bay my next objective. Entry to this was fairly straightforward as long as good offing was given to Teterigi point and its off lying rocks.

A fairly deep anchorage this I dropped the hook in 14m in sand and rocks. In consequence the anchor chain spent my stay here grumbling over the rocks as the boat swung to the tide and breeze. Nevertheless it was a pretty spot with sea caves, a waterfall that tumbled almost into the sea and a white coral sand beach. I explored the sea caves by dinghy but they were dissappointly shallow, but nearby there were some  nice corals amongst the rocks and some brightly coloured fish.

I visited the waterfall and had a long chat with the owner of the little bar at it’s foot. It was closed at present but he told me of the place and off the dramatic views from here when Ambae erupted in 2018 and off all the ash that it deposited.

Waterfall Asanvari bay

I walked through the village and to the other side of the point for a fine view back to Pentecost.

Pentecost from Maewo

Some Ausies in a big Beneteau were anchored here too, They came over for a couple of chats and seemed quite intrigued oh now I managed on my own.


Sunset Asanvari bay

Leaving Asanvani I sailed a little way northwards up the coast of Maewo. This was partly to get a better slant on the wind for crossing to Ambae but also to see some of the waterfalls for which Maewo is renowned and there were lots. It was tempting to go further North but I was aware that time was running out and beside there was a bit of a SW swell which would have made any anchorages up the coast  uncomfortable.

Heading over to Ambae I had a very pleasant sail, wind about 12-15 knots on the quarter and light seas. Oh if only all sailing could be that pleasant!

The entrance to Lolowai bay, which is a drowned old volcanic crater, is a little tricky. You have to skirt closely a steep cliff, once a crater wall then cross a coral flat across the remains of part of the crater wall. My depth gauge read 3m and the boat draws 1.5m so not much water under the keel. There are some leading marks to give you the right line but it is worrying stuff all the same. Once in the depth increases and you are in a wonderful calm  circular basin protected from most directions. I anchored in about 12 m in black sand and could recover my composure with a welcome cup of tea.

Ashore there was a shop and wonderfully they had bread and some beer, I had been dry for days.

Over the next few days I took some walks, SE along the track towards the airport, W up to a lake over the ridge and S steeply up the back wall of the bay to a ridge and followed to a viewpoint looking far down to the bay.

At the boat one afternoon I was visited by a group of swimming children who delighted in climbing aboard (at my invite) and leaping off from the pulpit.

The French couple who I had first meet in Aneityum turned up and anchored in the bay.

I was ready to move on again, a fairly long leg to Espirito Santo for which I would need a very early start. I planned to exit the bay, which you can only do after half tide and anchor just around the corner in Vanihe Bay. All packed up, dinghy stowed and ready late afternoon but a check on the forecast showed a strong wind warning for next day 20-25 knots of wind and rough seas so I put the move off. 

Next day was better on around high tide in the late afternoon using the leading marks I motored out over the coral flat and around the cliff headland to anchor off a black sand beach in 7 m. A lovely spot this too, the beach was backed by steep cliffs and there was no access by land so it was unspoilt.