Some Essex rivers

8th – 17th July

It was not long after first light and sortly after low tide when I slipped the mooring and headed off down the river. I had arrived at the boat the previous afternoon. There was no one else about at this early hour and if I had been more virtuous I would have arisen a little earlier to make the most of the tide, but sometimes the comforts of a warm bunk and of leaving when it is  light rather than in the dark are too strong. There was no wind at first but just short of the docks of Felixstowe a gentle breeze sprang up and all sails were soon hoisted. Past Harwich and I could set a course close hauled to take me down the Medusa channel with the benefit of the flood tide under me. The wind direction was not ideal as my course was taking me out towards the Gunfleet Sands. There was low cloud so the all that could be seen of the wind farm were the towers, the rotors hidden from view. When the Gunfleetold light came close it was time to tack to avoid running into the Sands. With this new course combined with the change in direction of the coast I could lay the Knoll north Cardinal . Gradually the cloud was lifting and the sun was making a sporadic appearance. We weren’t making a fast passage but it was pleasant easy sailing none-the less. Passing the Knoll a slight course alteration took me to the Eagle and thence the Colne Bar buoy and I could, with the wind astern, run into the Colne. Going into a new place always leaves one slightly apprehensive, transferring ones interpretation of the chart into what is before ones eyes is where the strain of single handing becomes most apparent. Have you got everything right? Just where are you going to round up to hand the sails, have you identified the creek entrance correctly, where is best spot to anchor? So it always somewhat with relief when you finally let go the hook, stow the sails and get the kettle on for a brew. I was anchored just inside the entrance to Pyefleet Creek and in enough water to stay afloat at low tide, though I was assured that should I touch, the mud was soft enough that I wouldn’t know the difference.

Pyefleet Creek

Next morning there was no wind, grey skies and with rain or drizzle from time to time so I was quite content to remain peacefully at anchor and watch the world go by and the birds feeding along the shore line. I watched a nice smack, the Maria, hoist all sails and then because of no wind get pushed by its tender. Never seen a smack pushed in this way rather than being towed. Much later they were back, pushed again so it must be their usual thing.

Smack Maria

The next day there was some wind so I sailed around to the Blackwater and up this past the moored Radio Caroline just past Bradwell and so up to anchor in the lee of Osea Island. It being Sunday afternoon there were a number of mobos here but they all cleared off later. It is a shame about the private notices on the island, it would be nice to be able to go ashore for a walk here. The forecast was for the wind to go around to the NW and blow rather strongly so I reckoned I was in a good spot here.

Radio Caroline up the Blackwater

When the wind had moderated a day later I shifted around to the Crouch. Out by the Wallet Spitway I was headed by the wind then it fell calm so I ended up motoring through the Spitway. I hadn’t felt bold enough to take the shorter way of the Ray Sand passage so took the long way around. I took the Swallowtail channel to join the Whitaker and so to the Crouch. I had thought to anchor up the Roach but the wind was back northerly and strongly  blowing 20 knots or more straight up there. Undecided whether it would be good or not to anchor there I continued on up the Crouch, after a while this didn’t seem like a good decision, the tide was running strongly against me by now, the wind continued blowing strongly and it took what seemed like ages to get past Burnham and up to anchor by Cliff Reach. Here the shelter I thought it had promised proved purely illusory. Nevertheless I was glad to get the hook down and get the tea on. 

I stayed there the next couple of days when the wind continued strong and most of the next when the wind eased. One afternoon I took the tide up the river to explore the upper reaches and then back down to re-anchor at Cliff Reach. The forecast had been for strong northerly or northwesterly winds for days, not so good I thought for beating back up the Wallet but at last the wind force was dropping perhaps becoming calm although the direction remained unfavourable for heading back North. Anyway I thought better some wind even if not in a good direction than no wind  which would mean motoring which I hate.  So early one morning, bucking the last of the flood I headed down the Crouch and out via the Whitaker channel. Close hauled I could almost hold the course, I just needed one tack back across when we we forced too close to the Foulness Sand. It had started out windy and choppy but gradually the wind eased and it became a pleasant sail. Past the Inner Whitaker and then short of the Whitaker cardinal I tacked towards the Swin Spitway  to cross the Spitway to enter the Wallet. Long tacks up this until short of Frinton-on-Sea where I realised I was losing the battle against the tide  with each tack away from the coast loosing me almost as much ground as I gained tacking shorewards. On with the engine then to motor sail to get past Walton and the Naze. Past here a better angle enabled me to kill the engine but the wind was now dying away so it took a long time up the Medusa. Approaching Felixstowe and suddenly without warning the wind was back 20 +knots so we started to fly but with too much sail aloft to be comfortable. I furled the yankee, would have liked to put a reef in the main but was suddenly in a lot of traffic, other yachts, ferries, fisherman and workboats so concentrated on getting though all this safely. Past the docks the wind departed almost as suddenly as it arrived so a quiet run up the river until the wind died just short of the mooring. Back on the mooring I could put the boat to bed as it were.  Later in the eve as I was to turn in for an early night there was a tremendous amount of splashing. Emerging in the cockpit to find out what it was all about I discovered a seal aboard the dinghy, it seemed to be settling in for the night. It was still there early next morning andI had to shoe it away before reclaiming my dinghy and heading ashore and so to home. It had been a reasonably successful exploratory trip despite the unsettled and inclement weather.

Seal

Pin Mill from the mooring

Fitting out done & shakedown sail.

I had made a start on the winter work schedule just about as soon as the lockdown easing at the end of April allowed me to travel down to the boat yard. I made a start and got a fair bit done but then was interrupted by a spell of cold and wet weather which put a stop to the work. It wasn’t until almost the end of May that finally we had some good weather and I was able to proceed with fitting out. Of course there is always far more to do than you first anticipate and it all takes longer than expected. There were few nonessential things I wanted to do but decided to put off. Eventually it was all done and the Sea Bear was ready to go back in the water. A few days after the yard told me that she was back on her mooring I went down to Pin Mill with Wendy for company. It was a lovely hot sunny day and after dinghying out to the boat we had a leisurely afternoon just settling in and relaxing.

Wendy & Sea Bear

Pin Mill Sunset

Next morning we slipped away from the mooring, there was no much wind but we did care about that, just sailed and drifted slowly down the river. It was Wendy’s first trip in the area so she was happy to have plenty of time to enjoy the sights. We decided not to go too far and once past Harwich we just headed for the Pye End buuy and hence to the channel to the Walton Backwaters. I though to anchor off Stone point, never having anchored there before but once there I wasn’t too happy with the Anchorage, it either felt too close in and too shallow for when the tide ebbed of far too close to the channel to be truly relaxing so we moved into Hamford water to anchor – much more relaxing. Not long ad after we had settled the wind increased and veered to the NE. This created quite a chop so it was a little uncomfortable for a while but it later eased. Next morning we spotted a pair of Avocets working along the shoreline, it was the first time I had ever seen these distinctive birds. Once the tide had risen enough we set off back out the channel and could just hold the line close hauled so had a good sail back to the mooring. There was enough tide for us to go ashore and have a walk though Pin Mill woods.

Pin Mill views

Returning back I made a classic mistake in that I overlooked the old age dictum of time and tide wait for no man. Actually it was the lure of a pint in the Butt & Oyster, which was perhaps my downfall. Maybe after it was excusable, as I had not had a pint in a pub since before lockdown, October last year, and even so that was just once since lockdown had started way back in March the previous year. Wendy queried whether we would have the time before the tide dropped but anyway the pint prevailed but sure enough back at the pontoon and the dinghy was high & dry. And so it was that I made my first acquaintance with Pin Mill mud – I won’t so easily make that mistake again!

A Pensioner’s Folly

No sailing over winter and it feels a long year in lockdown. I haven’t even been able to visit the boat since the end of October when she was shifted ashore for the winter, let alone do any work to prepare her for the coming season.
Meanwhile a fella has to do something, so I have written a book about some of my travels in my boat. Oh and I have published it too, available in either paperback or an e-book. It’s called “A Pensioner’s Folly” and if you wish you can buy a copy to read all about it.
I would appreciate any comments, good or bad and any feedback.

Southampton to Pin Mill

Sea Bear arrived back in the UK at Southampton docks and was unloaded from the ships deck into the water. Stepping aboard I motored the short distance to the marina. Here I set about preparing her for sea again.

Sea Bear on ship

Re fitting the running rigging, bending on the sails, refitting the canvas work, up the mast to refit the wind instrument and lazy jacks, generally checking things over and a bit of cleaning and all the other odd jobs that needed doing.
After several days of bad weather, gales, high winds grey cloudy skies and rain, which kept me marina bound, at last the weather looked to be improving. I was up and away from Ocean Village by 05.55 to catch the ebb down Southampton water. I skirted the edge of the channel on the mainland side to keep clear of ferries and the like. Calm at first but a light breeze from NW sprang up so up went the main & yankee. It was fairly busy passing Portsmouth with both IOW and Normandy Ferries but was able to keep clear easily. Past the Horse Sand Fort and I set a course for the start of the Looe channel. I was now catching the flood up the channel which I was able to carry almost all the way to Newhaven where I entered the harbour and tied alongside the visitors pontoon. A long but satisfying day, 63 miles 12 hours.

Sea Bear in Newhaven

Leaving Newhaven

A later start next day as I waited for the tide, My sister who lives nearby visited in the morning and we had a socially distant re-union, nice to meet up after being away for over a year and a half. I slipped away just after 10.00. I passed the notable landmark of Beachy Head and then I passed inshore of the Royal Sovereign Shoals. Off Hastings I hove-to to chat to a 40’ Motor cruiser who had put out a Pan Pan with engine failure. Assured myself they were OK, weather was fine, they had an anchor down and were quite content to wait for an arranged tow back to Bournemouth, so I carried on. Past Dungeness and so to Dover. Tricky to enter the marina of the inner harbour with the sun sun low and on my eyes. 56 miles 10 hrs

Approaching Beachy Head

Next morning I had a grandstand view of the Border Force doing their thing with what turned out to be a record number (over 180) of  immigrants or refugees crossing the channel in rubber dinghies. Again waiting for the tide for an afternoon departure for the short hop up the coast to Ramsgate. 15 miles

Border Force rescuing immigrants

Border force towing in rubber dinghies

An early start from Ramsgate the next day to catch the tide up past North Foreland and then catch the ebb across the estuary. I decided on the route up past the Tongue Deepwater anchorage then through Foulgers Gat through the London Array wind farm. Strange this to be sailing between the wind pylons. Thence up the Black Deep and across the Sunk, across the Gunfleet sands and so to the Medusa channel up to Harwich and so up the Orwell to pick up Sea Bear’s new mooring at Pin Mill. 48 miles 10 hrs.

Butt & Oyster from the hard at Pin Mill

So now I can look forward to exploring an area steeped in yacthing history which is new to me.

About to set out

Sun 17th August

We are alongside in Victoria dock, Caernarfon. I have moved out of the house and moved aboard the boat and about to set off on an adventure. The last few days have been spent fitting the solar panel to the new rear gantry and connecting it all up using a mppt controller and it seems to be working well.

solar-panel-&-sea-bear-at-Victoria-dock

Sea Bear in Victoria Dock ready to set out for big adventure

Provisions have been purchased and stowed, water tanks topped up and we are ready for the off. It has however been horribly windy, F5-7 occ 8, not the sort on conditions to set out to cross Caernarfon bar. The forecast promises better for tomorrow so we might be setting out at last.

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